My DYI filter relocation with pics
#21
06-23-2016, 02:18 PM
Thanks everyone. Putting filters in stupid places is all too common. It's up to guys like us to reverse engineer a product already on the market making it fit to our specification.
Here's a closer pic of the filter in place, it's the closest I can get without too much distortion.
By the way, how do I go about enabling a thank you button?
Here's a closer pic of the filter in place, it's the closest I can get without too much distortion.
By the way, how do I go about enabling a thank you button?
Last edited by TUCCI; 06-27-2016 at 04:10 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by TUCCI:
OldPhat (07-08-2016),
sn95bullitt (07-09-2016)
#22
06-23-2016, 02:29 PM
Beary, It would be a matter of using another small bracket to move it out from my current location. If I had to move it out, I would use a block of aluminum with longer bolts to pull it away from the swing arm (1" would go a long way). To use anything else would make for too much vibration to the filter housing. The more solid the fixture, the less integrity decay will be caused by jarring etc.
#23
06-23-2016, 05:56 PM
Thank you very much I owe a debt to the Forum to post detailed mods like this after countless times I've learned from others who have done likewise.
The main reason it's advisable to have the filter length-ways instead of up and down is the bottom of the filter would likely scrape on turns especially with a full size filter which is what most people run.
By not having to worry about clearing the left pipe my bracket allows for maximum stealth. Any shape of bracket can be formed to the specification you are trying to achieve, remembering you need ample room to run you oil lines. I used hardware laying around the shop and you can use just about anything as long as you don't go too thin as the bounce and vibration of the road will cause an issue. The kits available cut around the motor mount but I went over the top to gain more bracket strength. By removing the plastic cap one of the fastener bolts shaved round can fit inside that cavity.
If you look at pic #2 in second post, you can see how beefy the bracket is. I can't depend on thin flimsy hardware especially if I decide to use a full size filter in the future. If you've ever removed the floorboard, then removed the bracket surrounding the motor mount you will see by looking at my bracket how it uses the bolts to hold the bracket in place. Their a bitch to remove initially as they are locktite'd in.
The flexibility is limitless. By using the location that most use, you can make it fit with any exhaust system as long as you don't mind it sticking out further. I tend to be **** and want every line to follow the lines on the bike.
The main reason it's advisable to have the filter length-ways instead of up and down is the bottom of the filter would likely scrape on turns especially with a full size filter which is what most people run.
By not having to worry about clearing the left pipe my bracket allows for maximum stealth. Any shape of bracket can be formed to the specification you are trying to achieve, remembering you need ample room to run you oil lines. I used hardware laying around the shop and you can use just about anything as long as you don't go too thin as the bounce and vibration of the road will cause an issue. The kits available cut around the motor mount but I went over the top to gain more bracket strength. By removing the plastic cap one of the fastener bolts shaved round can fit inside that cavity.
If you look at pic #2 in second post, you can see how beefy the bracket is. I can't depend on thin flimsy hardware especially if I decide to use a full size filter in the future. If you've ever removed the floorboard, then removed the bracket surrounding the motor mount you will see by looking at my bracket how it uses the bolts to hold the bracket in place. Their a bitch to remove initially as they are locktite'd in.
The flexibility is limitless. By using the location that most use, you can make it fit with any exhaust system as long as you don't mind it sticking out further. I tend to be **** and want every line to follow the lines on the bike.
You did a nice job with this I used some of Dan Moores product and mounted mine in the same place but vertical, I don't use it for a oil filter though I converted mine to a breather catch can. even though it is vertical I have never scraped. again great job.
The following users liked this post:
Sparkybob477 (11-06-2016)
#24
06-24-2016, 12:03 AM
Tourer
Thank you very much I owe a debt to the Forum to post detailed mods like this after countless times I've learned from others who have done likewise.
The main reason it's advisable to have the filter length-ways instead of up and down is the bottom of the filter would likely scrape on turns especially with a full size filter which is what most people run.
By not having to worry about clearing the left pipe my bracket allows for maximum stealth. Any shape of bracket can be formed to the specification you are trying to achieve, remembering you need ample room to run you oil lines. I used hardware laying around the shop and you can use just about anything as long as you don't go too thin as the bounce and vibration of the road will cause an issue. The kits available cut around the motor mount but I went over the top to gain more bracket strength. By removing the plastic cap one of the fastener bolts shaved round can fit inside that cavity.
If you look at pic #2 in second post, you can see how beefy the bracket is. I can't depend on thin flimsy hardware especially if I decide to use a full size filter in the future. If you've ever removed the floorboard, then removed the bracket surrounding the motor mount you will see by looking at my bracket how it uses the bolts to hold the bracket in place. Their a bitch to remove initially as they are locktite'd in.
The flexibility is limitless. By using the location that most use, you can make it fit with any exhaust system as long as you don't mind it sticking out further. I tend to be **** and want every line to follow the lines on the bike.
The main reason it's advisable to have the filter length-ways instead of up and down is the bottom of the filter would likely scrape on turns especially with a full size filter which is what most people run.
By not having to worry about clearing the left pipe my bracket allows for maximum stealth. Any shape of bracket can be formed to the specification you are trying to achieve, remembering you need ample room to run you oil lines. I used hardware laying around the shop and you can use just about anything as long as you don't go too thin as the bounce and vibration of the road will cause an issue. The kits available cut around the motor mount but I went over the top to gain more bracket strength. By removing the plastic cap one of the fastener bolts shaved round can fit inside that cavity.
If you look at pic #2 in second post, you can see how beefy the bracket is. I can't depend on thin flimsy hardware especially if I decide to use a full size filter in the future. If you've ever removed the floorboard, then removed the bracket surrounding the motor mount you will see by looking at my bracket how it uses the bolts to hold the bracket in place. Their a bitch to remove initially as they are locktite'd in.
The flexibility is limitless. By using the location that most use, you can make it fit with any exhaust system as long as you don't mind it sticking out further. I tend to be **** and want every line to follow the lines on the bike.
#25
06-24-2016, 03:43 PM
Yeah that's what I did, in fact the original prototype didn't make the cut and I had to redo it. Let me know if you need any pointers, I'm happy to help.
#29
06-29-2016, 03:02 PM
#30
06-29-2016, 04:06 PM
The oil has to pump another 4 feet. Do you think Harley over designs their oil pumps cause they like giving their customers extra?
Exposed hose, that will probably be fine, but is another potential to fail. I carry spare hose. But not enough to repair that. I'dd add a hose splice.
All this so you don't have to spray the front of your bike with some brake clean.
Exposed hose, that will probably be fine, but is another potential to fail. I carry spare hose. But not enough to repair that. I'dd add a hose splice.
All this so you don't have to spray the front of your bike with some brake clean.