Very nice!!

 

Yes, once I determined the thread size of my filter, in this case 3/4-16 thread (15715 is the kit I bought). I found a universal aluminum on ebay . It comes with 1/2 NPT-1/2" hose barbs. I went to Ace and got 1/2 NPT-3/8 barbs since a 1/2 hose is a rediculous diameter for a MC. I couldn't find 90 degree barbs so I had to get creative (see pic 2). You want to thread them in well with Teflon tape making sure to cleanup the inside of any tape threading. You could stay with aluminum, but I'm into blackin stuff out so I did what I do. I got 3/8" transmitting cooler hose from any auto parts store ( my case I used O'Reillys). I,went a little long but I got 4ft for each stretch of hose. I used 2 8-10in lengths cut down the middle of the 1/2" hose that came with the kit. I slid my 3/8" hose right into the 1/2" for engine heat protection. The 3/8" hose fit snug enough on the barbs that I needed to use a dab of simple green to facilitate the hose over the barb, then clamped the filter side with Oetiker pinch clamps, and black screw clamps on the spin on adapter side. The only place I could see where I might get some seapage was if I got too cautious by not threading the brass barbs snug enough or at the gasket contact at the engine spin on or filter gasket points . I ran it for a few miles and everything looks fantastic.

 

Thank you, I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.

 

Well, when I change oil I remove the filter (mess #1), put a scavenger puck in its place which allows the oil to circulate. I then drain the crancase, fill it with 2qts of oil, run it for at least 3 mins then drain it again. This allows me to flush the sump of dirty oil. Only then do I completely fill the crancase. I then have to remove my filter 'puck' and put a cleaned filter in its place (mess #2). This routing is made so much more efficient by putting the filter in a remote area.
If you know what your doing and use the right marerials, there will be no leaks. There's not enough oil pressure to cause anything to blow off, even at high speeds your only getting 40psi.

 

HI Tucci: Great post. Really appreciate you sharing your work with us. I've been thinking about relocating the oil filter too, and I like what you've done (btw, I also use the Scavenger).

My bike has mufflers on both sides, and I have the S&S Power Tune Dual headers with a larger-than-stock crossover pipe. Do you think your setup allows the oil filter to clear the crossover pipe and its heat shield? I prefer to have my oil filter mounted horizontally just like your setup, and I don't know if there will be enough room to clear the crossover pipe's heat shield.

Did you fabricate the 1/8" wrinkle black coated billet aluminum mounting plate yourself? Where do you have the mounting plate attached on the bike (perhaps a close-up photo)? I'm hoping your design has enough flexibility to allow me to reposition the assembly slightly if I need to.

Best regards.

 

Thank you very much I owe a debt to the Forum to post detailed mods like this after countless times I've learned from others who have done likewise.
The main reason it's advisable to have the filter length-ways instead of up and down is the bottom of the filter would likely scrape on turns especially with a full size filter which is what most people run.
By not having to worry about clearing the left pipe my bracket allows for maximum stealth. Any shape of bracket can be formed to the specification you are trying to achieve, remembering you need ample room to run you oil lines. I used hardware laying around the shop and you can use just about anything as long as you don't go too thin as the bounce and vibration of the road will cause an issue. The kits available cut around the motor mount but I went over the top to gain more bracket strength. By removing the plastic cap one of the fastener bolts shaved round can fit inside that cavity.
If you look at pic #2 in second post, you can see how beefy the bracket is. I can't depend on thin flimsy hardware especially if I decide to use a full size filter in the future. If you've ever removed the floorboard, then removed the bracket surrounding the motor mount you will see by looking at my bracket how it uses the bolts to hold the bracket in place. Their a bitch to remove initially as they are locktite'd in.
The flexibility is limitless. By using the location that most use, you can make it fit with any exhaust system as long as you don't mind it sticking out further. I tend to be **** and want every line to follow the lines on the bike.

 

You probably don't know the answer, but how will your filter mount work for stock crossover pipe and the left side exhaust?

Beary

 

Nice work Tucci !

And thanks so much posting how to do this saving guys that can wrench & want to relocate the oil filter $200+ in the process vs buying a filter relocation kit already on the market from DKCustoms , 3guys(?),etc.

Scott

 

Awesome job! Looks pretty cool and clean, and what an awesome spot to keep things clean when doing an oil change. I'm also not a big fan of the barbed fittings and hose clamps but if it doesn't leak it's all good in my opinion.


Every time I change the oil on mine I get pissed off! Amazes me that after 113 year of building motorcycles the MOCO hasn't come up with a better damn design that wont drip oil all over the god damn place when you spin the filter off.

Their solution is a stupid little plastic tray that in my opinion isn't worth the power to blow it to pieces! Every time I use that stupid thing it ends up moving and the oil still leaks all over! It's kind of a running joke between me and a buddy actually. LoL!

 

Good work and great idea and workmanship!!