I've been troubleshooting this most of the day after my 107 Fuel Moto engine build w/Woods 555 cams and I'm at the point now where I have no lifters and pushrods in the motor and the cam chest open no spark plugs no compression spinning Engine with the starter. Oil pump stayed mounted to the cam plate during cam swap. there's some oil coming out of the bottom of the cam chest but no oil pumping into where the lifters pick up their oil to pressure up. Initial start up was noisy as expected, but the lifter noise never went away. Replaced all 3 o rings again as a safety measure. I thought for sure when pulled the cam plate there would be an obvious issue, no dice. Had no oil pressure on gauge after a couple 30 second try. Sorry for the novel like post. Hopefully someone else has run into this??!! Thanks a million for any and all input.
EDIT: SEE POST 32 FOR HAPPY ENDING!!!!

Kris

 

I had a hell of racket from lifters, that I shut it down. Started back up and quited down. 2 30 second trys seems a bit. But maybe not.

 

I did try longer than that after checking with an Indy engine builder but Fuel Moto said to start with the obvious, o rings. They are perfect, so just hope to find someone who has been there. Turning engine over with starter it spins plenty quickly to pump some oil, I'd think?
Kris

 

Stupid question...but did you drain your oil out of the motor before you started with all of the mods? Just wondering if there is enough oil in the sump. Even if the O rings had been torn or cracked, the lifters would have pumped up, but it would have not made any power since the crank case would pump full of oil....and the engine would run hot and puny.

 

Only thing I can add is it can take 4-5 minutes of running for the oil to prime and make it to the top end. It's wicked slow on a good day.

 

At this point there's no stupid questions cause I been working on it a few days now, but yes, new Dino oil and filter
Kris

 

Do you think I should let the starter spin it for a while again and just let it go I can't see hurting anything this way there's still a ton of assembly Lube and oul in there.
Kris

 

You might want to unbolt the oil pump from the cam plate and re-center the pump. Sometimes you can do what you did (as I did) and leave the pump on the plate and assume that it will go back centered....but that is not guaranteed. Also make sure there is no trash or any blockages inside the pump itself, especially on the sump side. Make sure you got all of the old O rings out of the recess before you installed the new O rings. I am just blueskying here but there is an oil flow problem and flow is either blocked or something has happened to the oil pump internals. I guarantee you it's going to be a simple fix, so take your time and don't let it frustrate you. Walk away for awhile.

Edit...was just going to add that when I changed cams and went with new Gaterman lifters, it didn't take but a few seconds before they stopped knocking upon first start-up. All that to say I wouldn't run that engine very long if the lifters won't quit knocking. Remember they play a big role in sending oil up through the pushrods and tubes to the top-end. If they are not primed and pumping, no oil is going to the top either.

You can pre-prime those lifters....and no not by soaking (which us useless due to the surface tension of the oil). Submerge the lifters in clean motor oil and pump the lifter top end (where the push rod sits) several times. That will pull oil into the lifter and allow it to come up primed faster upon initial startup.

 

Your thought for no oil pressure is because of the gauge? If the clack and clatter stopped after a bit sounds like you getting something, pull your oil sensor and attach an analog oil pressure gauge,

http://t.harborfreight.com/engine-oi....google.com%2F

Start up after my rebuild was the scariest part.

 

i thought you could pack the pump with vasoline or grease so it would start the prime quicker ?