Yes it will ... for your infomation,, the auto adjuster only adjusts to tighten the chain,, it does not loosen the chain... When you removed the assembly and put a cable tie around it, you will be installing the assembly at the auto settings at that time of removal... As your primary chain seems loose now, the auto adjust will do its job, (at start up and riding), and all will be good.....

I believe good practice, is when re-installing original assembly, is to move wedge in assembly all the way back , (ie, no adjustment), put cable tie around assembly,, install/mount assembly ,, cut cable tie.. The auto adjuster will ratchet up a few notches,, this will ensure, (at start up), that the auto adjuster is starting from the lower settings,, (not start at a setting that may have been to tight), and go up as required ... The manual shows info on this,, and the video above gives a good understanding on the assembly parts ....

 

Thanks

Ok after cleaning up tools and such came across this. Any idea what it goes to. Looked in diagrams and don't see it anywhere on the comp or clutch side

 

Yes I do,, I recently asked a question on here regarding this part.. Working on a mates bike and he is working in the primary and replacing the primary chain assembly...
The part above is, one of two spaces that the primary chain assembly mounting bolts go through on the back side of the assembly..
If you are just re-installing your original assembly these have to be re-installed... If you were updating to new version , (39929-06B), the mounting design of the assembly has changed , and these spaces are no longer required...

In your case ,, remove primary chain assembly, and fit these spaces in position ,(behind assembly).. Remember there are two !!! (find the other one, if it is not there)..
I have an old assembly in my shed,, I will take a pic , and it will show you want your looking at ...

 

Beat me to it. And if you haven't already, you do want to install 39929-06B. It's a much better unit.

 

I used a deep socket to lock the front sprocket both for removal and reinstall.

 

Ok so if I have this right I need to basically take everything back off to get the spacer in, Other than the rotor? Or if I buy the new auto tensioner can I just slide it under the chain without removing everything?

 

Seems there are two topics going on in this thread,, its all interesting, so all's good..

Cdal1,, Check out video in this thread and look for 2.30 onwards.... If you have all the primary components installed, you only have to remove/slide out, the primary chain assembly... You said your chain is loose at the moment, so you should'nt have any problems putting a cable tie around the assembly. If by chance you can't get the tie around the assembly, push down on the assembly and pull /wiggle it out.... If the assembly ratchet opens up when removed, check manual and video, and set assembly with wedge all the way back,, cable tie in place,, install mounting bolts through assembly,, install spacers x 2 over bolts, (make sure lip of spacers are facing assembly),,, install/mount assemble ,,, cut and remove cable tie .... Done !!!!!

PS If you are replacing assembly with 39929-06B, (no spacers required), the unit comes compressed with a tang,, install as above ,,, remove tang ,,, Done...

 

Ok that makes sense and what I was hoping the solution was going to be.
Unfortunately I'll have to drain primary again and slide assembly out to put spacer in its place. Didn't see it till I was literally completely done.

Oh well, it's been a good learning experience with this bike especially being that I've only had a little over a week.

First off if I need to start a new thread with these after install questions I can.

But here comes another question. i adjusted the clutch bolt per manual and afterwards I ended up with the clutch engaging with almost no movement. Basically 1/8" of movement engaged clutch. So should I tighten or loosen the bolt to give a little more free play? After I buttoned everything up I turned it on and put in gear to hear for noise before I saw that spacer on the ground.

And by the way I really appreciate everyone's quick help on all this. Hopefully one day I can return the favor to someone.

 

am reading some putting red Loctite #262 on the comp bolt but the manual does not mention doing this?

It does state the clutch hub mainshaft nut needs the #262 (pg 5-7 in 2012 Touring Service Manual)

Maybe I missed it in the manual?

Have read some put blue on it? or does the bolt come in the kit w/ the blue on it?

Replacing one on a 2008 w/ the SE kit shortly....thanks.

 

If you are installing new SE comp kit, the bolt in the kit , (70 torx), has thread locker already on end of bolt from the manufacturer .. No need for any other thread locking material ... An important Tip,, clean out threads of old thread locker where comp bolt screws into good and proper, before assembly of new comp.. Brake cleaner and compressed air ... Also use the old comp bolt and screw in and out to clean up threads...