Rear cylinder running lean, FM107 and Thundermax
#1
Rear cylinder running lean, FM107 and Thundermax
Hi, and Greetings from Finland!
I have a problem with Thundermax with bigbore kit and I'm hoping that you could help me out.
Just finished Fuel Moto 107 build (10.5 comp) with Wood 777 cams, SE throttle body and level B headwork on my 2007 Road King. I already had Thundermax with Autotune and I used basemap from FuelMoto. Engine started up fine but after running a while I got code that said "rear cylinder running lean". I Used Thundermax monitor mode and the rear cylinder was showing AFR values between 15 and 19. I suspected intake leak and tried to locate it with WD40 and propane, but couldn't find any. I also checked cracks from the exhaust pipe, couldn't find any and re-torqued exhaust flanges => still running lean.
I remembered reading somewhere that Thundermax doesn't like Platinum spark plugs and changed them => still running lean. I still have the performance spark plug wires from Fuel Moto.
Then I removed the rear O2 sensor, cleaned it, put it into the front cylinder, (and front sensor to back) => rear cylinder still running lean.
I'm not that familiar with Thundermax and running out of ideas, so I was wondering if someone else has experienced similar problems. Any help is appreciated!
Br Sami
I have a problem with Thundermax with bigbore kit and I'm hoping that you could help me out.
Just finished Fuel Moto 107 build (10.5 comp) with Wood 777 cams, SE throttle body and level B headwork on my 2007 Road King. I already had Thundermax with Autotune and I used basemap from FuelMoto. Engine started up fine but after running a while I got code that said "rear cylinder running lean". I Used Thundermax monitor mode and the rear cylinder was showing AFR values between 15 and 19. I suspected intake leak and tried to locate it with WD40 and propane, but couldn't find any. I also checked cracks from the exhaust pipe, couldn't find any and re-torqued exhaust flanges => still running lean.
I remembered reading somewhere that Thundermax doesn't like Platinum spark plugs and changed them => still running lean. I still have the performance spark plug wires from Fuel Moto.
Then I removed the rear O2 sensor, cleaned it, put it into the front cylinder, (and front sensor to back) => rear cylinder still running lean.
I'm not that familiar with Thundermax and running out of ideas, so I was wondering if someone else has experienced similar problems. Any help is appreciated!
Br Sami
#2
If you switched around the O2 sensors from front to back and the rear cylinder is still running lean, I think it's safe to say your sensors are good and the Thunder Max is getting and accurate reading. What about a problem with the rear fuel injector. Just a thought. Trying pulling off the electrical connector to it and apply some dielectric grease.
#3
If you switched around the O2 sensors from front to back and the rear cylinder is still running lean, I think it's safe to say your sensors are good and the Thunder Max is getting and accurate reading. What about a problem with the rear fuel injector. Just a thought. Trying pulling off the electrical connector to it and apply some dielectric grease.
Br Sami
#4
Try removing the ECM connector from the Thunder Max and use a light coating of dielectric grease on the connections and reinstall it. I think they advise doing this in the install directions to help avoid some drivability issues. It can't hurt, I did it to both Thunder Maxes on our bikes. I would think if you had an intake leak it would idle eratically.
#5
Try removing the ECM connector from the Thunder Max and use a light coating of dielectric grease on the connections and reinstall it. I think they advise doing this in the install directions to help avoid some drivability issues. It can't hurt, I did it to both Thunder Maxes on our bikes. I would think if you had an intake leak it would idle eratically.
Br Sami
#6
#7
What are you using for an exhaust system?
__________________
Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
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#8
I have 07-stock head pipe with actuator motor (Europe model) removed. V&H turndown slip-ons with modified baffles. Baffle diameter is little over 2".
If my timing is off by one tooth, that would also cause symptoms like this, right? I'm 99% sure that the timing is correct but I guess I have to pull the cam cover and check it today to be 100% sure.
Br Sami
If my timing is off by one tooth, that would also cause symptoms like this, right? I'm 99% sure that the timing is correct but I guess I have to pull the cam cover and check it today to be 100% sure.
Br Sami
#9
the rear typically runs "leaner" due to less airflow- hotter.
in response we might richen the mixture slightly ( although this can screw up what he front is doing if you don;t have independent control) or retard the ignition timing by about 3 degrees to the rear cylinder only ( if you can)
I would suggest adjusting the spark timing before opening the cam chest.
as for dielectric grease...it can be a double edged sword- it can seal moisture out...or it can trap moisture in...and corrode causing resistance in the circuit
our electronics run less than 5 volts DC and often milliamps, even slight resistance in a connection can cause problems.
another thing to check is that you have proper fuel pressure and volume
one of these days I want to get one of those acuators and try to use it for a 2/1 at low rpms and 2/1/2 at higher speed...transition about 3200 rpms
mike
in response we might richen the mixture slightly ( although this can screw up what he front is doing if you don;t have independent control) or retard the ignition timing by about 3 degrees to the rear cylinder only ( if you can)
I would suggest adjusting the spark timing before opening the cam chest.
as for dielectric grease...it can be a double edged sword- it can seal moisture out...or it can trap moisture in...and corrode causing resistance in the circuit
our electronics run less than 5 volts DC and often milliamps, even slight resistance in a connection can cause problems.
another thing to check is that you have proper fuel pressure and volume
one of these days I want to get one of those acuators and try to use it for a 2/1 at low rpms and 2/1/2 at higher speed...transition about 3200 rpms
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 04-04-2016 at 02:19 AM.
#10
the rear typically runs "leaner" due to less airflow- hotter.
in response we might richen the mixture slightly ( although this can screw up what he front is doing if you don;t have independent control) or retard the ignition timing by about 3 degrees to the rear cylinder only ( if you can)
I would suggest adjusting the spark timing before opening the cam chest.
as for dielectric grease...it can be a double edged sword- it can seal moisture out...or it can trap moisture in...and corrode causing resistance in the circuit
our electronics run less than 5 volts DC and often milliamps, even slight resistance in a connection can cause problems.
another thing to check is that you have proper fuel pressure and volume
one of these days I want to get one of those acuators and try to use it for a 2/1 at low rpms and 2/1/2 at higher speed...transition about 3200 rpms
mike
in response we might richen the mixture slightly ( although this can screw up what he front is doing if you don;t have independent control) or retard the ignition timing by about 3 degrees to the rear cylinder only ( if you can)
I would suggest adjusting the spark timing before opening the cam chest.
as for dielectric grease...it can be a double edged sword- it can seal moisture out...or it can trap moisture in...and corrode causing resistance in the circuit
our electronics run less than 5 volts DC and often milliamps, even slight resistance in a connection can cause problems.
another thing to check is that you have proper fuel pressure and volume
one of these days I want to get one of those acuators and try to use it for a 2/1 at low rpms and 2/1/2 at higher speed...transition about 3200 rpms
mike
Bike has 16k miles and the fuel filter has never been changed. How can I check fuel pressure/ volume? Can I see those values from Thundermax?
Mike, you can get my actuator, you just have to come and get it from Finland
Br Sami