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Engine detonation and just runs like crap

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  #1  
Old 03-20-2016, 10:31 AM
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Default Engine detonation and just runs like crap

Hi All,

I posted this in the exhaust tech forum but apparently not an appropriate forum so trying it here.

Sorry for the odd title but no other way to describe what's going on. My 2010 Limited (FLHTK) ran beautifully when I bought it in the fall of 2014 with about 35,000 miles on it. In late spring of 2015 I had a full Stage 1 done with Vance & Hines dual slashed slip on mufflers, screaming eagle air cleaner, de-catted and the screaming eagle street tuner installed.

Recently the bike has started to jump around like a dog crapping peach seeds, heavy detonation, tries to stall, lousy throttle response when attempting to keep it running and the bike shakes mercilessly when in stop and go traffic and it heats up. Of course I can imagine it is related to heat. Lately the temperature has been in the 60's - 80's and it "never" ran like this in the heat of the summer last year. This is in Florida. I have also been told it is the heat management system kicking in. BS. The worst it "ever" ran in stop and go traffic on 95 plus days in the summer wasn't anywhere near what I am experiencing now.

I have been told that I should expect to feel about 80% of the volume of air coming from the right muffler and the temperature of that air will be significantly hotter than the left. That pretty much describes what I'm noticing when I put my hand over the mufflers. Can anyone tell me if this is truly normal and expected?

If I cover the end of the right muffler shouldn't I feel a huge increase in volume and temperature coming from the left muffler?

I feel my issues are exhaust related so I posted to this forum.

Any advice, assistance or insight will really appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:43 AM
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Forget the exhaust.
Check:
Plugs
Plug wires
Battery, connections, grounds
Moisture at connections
Coil, coils
Tuner
 
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by OldMike
Forget the exhaust.
Check:
Plugs
Plug wires
Battery, connections, grounds
Moisture at connections
Coil, coils
Tuner
Good list.
Might add check for intake and exhaust leaks. Any Codes
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...es.html#pcodes

and check the little black cap that covers the vacuum line on the top of the throttle body. #11 in the link

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ION%20ASSEMBLY
 

Last edited by Vernal; 03-20-2016 at 10:52 AM.
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  #4  
Old 03-20-2016, 10:55 AM
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Have you drained the tank and put fresh gasoline in it? First thing I would do though is check the intake for leaks.
 
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:00 AM
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First things first,

Remove the tuner and see how it runs.

Next is vacuum leaks, ignition secondary, and fuel pressure.

Then crank sensor, TPS, and temp sensor.

A bad crank sensor will not set a code.
A bad TPS will not always set a code.
A bad temp sensor will not always set a code.
 
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by OldMike
Forget the exhaust.
Check:
Plugs
Plug wires
Battery, connections, grounds
Moisture at connections
Coil, coils
Tuner
New plugs installed about 4,000 miles ago
Plug wires "appear" to be in great shape
New battery installed by dealer 3 days ago
Will check for moisture
Dealer dyno'd the bike several days ago and tell me everything is perfect. A bad coil should show here I would think

Thank you very much for taking the time to respond.

Just to satisfy my curiosity, is the difference in both volume and temperature accurately presented by the dealer staff??

Thank you.
 
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:29 AM
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I would be looking at the tuner also. If you have a bad tune it'll do a lot of what your saying. Just changing pipes and air box won't cause you all those issues. But you added a tuner. I'm not familiar with the screaming eagle tuner. I have a powervision. And if you flash a bad tune it can make you bike run rough and have poor throttle response.
 
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Vernal
Good list.
Might add check for intake and exhaust leaks. Any Codes
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...es.html#pcodes

and check the little black cap that covers the vacuum line on the top of the throttle body. #11 in the link

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ION%20ASSEMBLY

My dealer just had it on the dyno and they tell me everything was as expected. I would certainly have to assume that things like intake leaks would show up. The bike runs great, plenty of power and feels good until heavy stop and go traffic and it heats up. After a few minutes of stop and go it gets to the point it will hardly run, loud detonation, shake violently and try to stall out. Turning off the "fuel management system" has no effect when all this begins. These symptoms just started a couple of weeks ago and sort of just came out of nowhere about 2 weeks ago.

Thanks for your response and suggestions. "MUCH" appreciated.
 
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by hdbob2006
Have you drained the tank and put fresh gasoline in it? First thing I would do though is check the intake for leaks.
YES - One of the first things the dealer did.

Thanks for the response.
 
  #10  
Old 03-20-2016, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Bent Wrench
First things first,

Remove the tuner and see how it runs.

Next is vacuum leaks, ignition secondary, and fuel pressure.

Then crank sensor, TPS, and temp sensor.

A bad crank sensor will not set a code.
A bad TPS will not always set a code.
A bad temp sensor will not always set a code.
The dealer had it on the dyno several days ago and I would have to believe most of what you suggest should show up during the test.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thank you.
 


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