If I knew how to check I would certainly do so. As near as I can tell there is no identifier on the connectors. They look identical to me.

Thanks for the input.

 

Look at the picture and the color of the connectors:

 

Most helpful. I was looking at the sensors themselves.

Thank you very much.

 

Just make sure they ran the O2 sensor with the darker connector to the rear bung on the pipes.

 

Black to back. Grey to front.

 

ThunderRabbit - I have nearly the same bike as you and a very similar set up. Let me tell you my story and see if this sheds any light on the problem you're having.

On the way home from Sturgis last summer, my bike starting running like crap - bucking, stumbling, lurching, missing. It was like riding some kind of demonically possessed bucking bronco. The problem only spread its demons once the engine was fully warmed up after 20-50 miles. When the engine was cool, it ran perfectly. The demons came out in force after stop-n-go traffic when the engine was plenty heated up. Engine RPM made no difference. It ran like crap at idle all the way to redline. It did run better under positive throttle than under neutral or negative throttle. So as long as I stayed on the gas, I could ride to the next town.

The short version of a long story is the dealer found no codes in the ECM. They replaced the fuel pump, crank position sensor, and ignition coil. After each part was replaced, they took it for a ride until the engine was good and hot. And each time it failed – ran great while cold for 20-50 miles, then starting running like crap after engine heated up.

They turned the problem over to H-D HQ in Milwaukee. After lots of troubleshooting, diagnosing and testing, they found a broken wire inside the insulation of a wire that runs to TMAP Sensor.

The TMAP Sensor is just inboard of the air cleaner. The wires come out of the TMAP Sensor Plug and turn 90 degrees down. Right in that bend is where the wire was broken inside the insulation.

They cut off the plug and a couple inches of wire. Grafted on a plug and wires from a wiring harness they had in the shop. Problem solved. Demons gone.

One thing they did to test it was to disconnect the TMAP Sensor plug while the bike was running crappy. The engine immediately smoothed out and ran right.

The TMAP sensor tells the Engine Control Module about the air temperature and how much air is coming through the intake manifold. Pretty important stuff for computing the firing of the cylinders. While the engine was cold, the broken wire made enough contact to work. As the wire heated up and expanded, the broken wires would separate. When the wires separated, it caused all kinds of confusion in the Engine Control Module.

If you have ever tried to troubleshoot an electrical problem, a broken wire inside the insulation is the worst, hardest to find.

Let me put in a good word for Destination H-D's Service Dept in Tacoma, WA. The tech called me just about every day to discuss the problem and his progress. And they treated me well when it was time to pay the bill. A big thumbs up to them.

Your bike has very similar symptoms. You might try disconnecting the TMAP sensor while it is running bad and see what happens.

Let us know what you find.
Good luck.





Intake Manifold. TMAP Sensor is #5

 

Thanks for sharing. There is a good bit of similarity between yours and mine, which also just suddenly appeared. The dealer wants to take one more shot at fixing it and sent a trailer over today and carried it back to the shop.

I let you know how it turns out.

 

Something to look at that I caught on mine, on the plug that goes into the side of your throttle body sometimes the wires break and rub from the vibration. Mine had one of the wires broke but it was still held on by part of the rubber shielding. So sometimes (most the time) the wire would still be making contact, but when it wasn't it would act like your describing. I only found it because I was looking for an intake leak and pulled the plug to remove the throttle body, grabbed the plug and checked the wires and sure enough one was half bare and broke. I've read a couple of threads were some dealers will extend these wires to prevent them from being over stretched and breaking. Something easy to check anyways.

 

I had an 11 limited, only did this when it was severely hot out, in traffic jams, after idleing to long, went into limp mode , built in to protect the engine, i was told, so bike is over heating, or something is telling it is is

 

Thanks for the heads up on this unusual possibility. At the moment the dealer has it back in their shop but I don't honestly have very high expectations that it will get repaired properly. One more thing to check when I get it back.