"Dealer still insists this is just Harley to which I say BS" You are correct, that is bs.

I know you had new spark plugs 4k ago, but I'd put a fresh set in just in case, as a cheap way of ruling them out of the equation

 

Is this only happening when the bike is at a total standstill? Even if the EITMS was kicking in, it shouldn't stall the bike as you rightly say.
Have you checked for any trouble codes showing? They might possibly be historic rather than current if the problem only shows when really hot and you'd be checking with the bike cold.
I'm not familiar with the SE street tuner but know a little about the SE pro race tuner. As far as I'm aware the street tuner gives legal maps and restricts tuning options yes? So I hope I don't send you off in the wrong direction here regards your street tuner
In race tuner, and possibly street tuner, there is an icon on the main screen for a toolbox. Clicking on this opens up a series of options including a data monitoring option on the left hand side. You can view selected components either in a live graph form or through a display table. Things like engine temp, live O2 data, tps, rpm and such like.
It would be interesting to see some data from the O2 sensors as to when the bike is behaving normally as to when it is trying to cut out. Along side engine temp and throttle position.
LP's mention on engine temp sensors is a good one, I've seen more than a few fail once fully hot....not really common, but enough for me to check they are behaving on a data monitor screen if a bike has a running issue.
A feature of HD mapping is something called "anti knock" This is something that is sometimes turned off prior to going onto a dyno and turned back on again afterwards. In race tuner, once you have selected a map either from the load calibration button or from what is stored on your VCI communication box it then displays on the main page. On the list at the left side towards the bottom is an option for tuning setup. If you drag and drop this into the main area of the page, you would see a series of options, one of which is tabbed as knock control. Clicking on this will show if your "knock control" is enabled or disabled. It should be set to "enabled".
Did the dealer actually do any tuning when it went on the dyno or just run the bike through it's paces and not make any adjustment? If no adjustments were made & you have a standard performance map installed, try selecting a mildly different map or reload anewly selected version of the current map and flash that to the bike to see if that improves things. If you have an adjusted map from the dealer though, you should save it before changing anything and re-install it so if it becomes messy with the dealer, you have their installed map back on the bike.
Did the problem happen after it going on a dyno?


You will also see the option to enable/ disable EITMS. I know you can turn it one and off with the bike itself, but I would check it is set to "enable." Out of interest, since this problem of yours has been happening, have you felt it kicking in? It may be turned off and what you are experiencing is the bike getting overly hot and not being able to cool down. Typically when EITMS cuts in, the bike plainly starts to run on one cylinder but it should never feel like you have to catch the throttle to keep the bike going, in fact as soon as you touch the throttle, the EITMS dropping onto one cylinder should stop and both cylinders start operating again, nor should you experience poor throttle control.


You should also be able to see a calibration description of what is stored on your VCI and check that it matches the setup of what you had installed. The map stored on the VCI is the current calibration that is running on your bike.
As this is something related to your dealer's install, I would ask them to put the bike back on the dyno and operate it within the problem area. Emphasise to them that cutting out in traffic is a "big" safety issue especially on a big tourer.


I could go on but hope some of this helps.

 

If it's detonation/preignition , I would as other said also focus on a vacuum leak or the tuner (specifically the timing).

 

The dealer supposedly dyno'd the bike a couple of days ago in an effort to correct the problem. They tell me there were no codes, current or historic, in the ECM. They also tell me they did "tweak" the currently installed map (Stage 1) to help out. No luck!!

The tuner allows recording of sensors and outputs, playing it back to observe values and does allow remapping the ECM with a selected map download. Not certain it allows tweaking individual devices.


This is my next step. Just wanted to get my ducks in a row before I did in case there were something more important I should be looking for.

Agreed

I will definitely check for this but the detonation and knocking started prior to being put on the dyno. As I said in another post, very suddenly out of nowhere it began to shake extremely bad and was detonating terribly. Sounded like a gremlin in the engine trying to beat his way out with a 2X4. This event is what caused me to take it to the dealer in the first place.


They tell me they did modify the map a bit. Not certain if this means a different map altogether or simply tweak some settings.

Will do. Thanks

Happened prior to the dyno. Just never improved after the dyno.


Honestly, it is really hard to say. As mentioned in another post it has been almost a year since the Stage 1 was done and I rode it just fine through the summer months. During those months there were many times when the EITMS would cut in and I would know when it did. The bike ran just fine and did what it is supposed to do. Nothing at all what I'm experiencing now. I can barely keep it running when it decides to misbehave.

Just to be clear, this is an idle issue. Once moving it seems to run very well. There is just a serious problem when it's hot and idling and of course this relates back to "heavy stop and go traffic". There have been times I actually have to keep pumping the throttle to keep it running and I'm confident this is only compounding the problem because guess what - I'm adding more heat to the problem.

The dealer keeps telling me this is the way Harleys behave and they act like they are tired of messing with it. In the meantime I have a bike that is a real challenge to ride and I yet have summer to look forward to. Don't even want to "think" about that.

I was checking temperatures with my infrared thermometer. After starting it and allowing it to idle for a few minutes I began taking readings around the cat housing. It was showing around 250 deg F which I would guess is perfectly normal. I checked the crossover pipe near the cat housing and it was a few degrees cooler than the cat chamber. No problem - right? However, the crossover pipe just in front of the left muffler was actually cool to the point I could place my bare hand on it. I don't think this is normal and the very small volume of air being discharge from the muffler is actually very cool.

Now, I can appreciate this probably doesn't have an impact on my detonation and wild shaking problem. However, is there a chance either the crossover pipe or the V&H muffler could be stopped up?

Anyway, thanks a bunch for taking the time to offer me so much detail and things to look for. Hope I can find because I can't count on the dealer.

 

Looked at them and they do appear to be just fine. Will change them out just in case.

Thanks for the tip!

 

I have some starting fluid I sprayed around the intake ports the best I could and saw no change. It was suggested that this could happen only when very hot so will try again when it is good and hot and acting up.

As far as I know the tuner "does not/can not" play any role in the actual operation of the ECM. It is merely a recording device and tool to aid in diagnosing and possible re-mapping of the ECM. The tuner "does not" remain plugged into the ECM. It is removed from the bike when the tune is completed.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

There's a huge disconnect between they symptoms/problem you're reporting and your dealership/mechanics response.

You said you got the extended warranty... is there any chance you could ride it to another dealership and see if they'll troubleshoot it?

 

Trust me. Been strongly considering it. I am fast losing any confidence I might have had in my current dealer. Warranty or not - I simply can't subject myself to riding in traffic knowing that every time I stop there is a good chance it will die. Not something I call fun.

 

First thing is get rid of the street tuner. It only allows canned EPA maps and very little if any adjustments. The street tuner will have maps that are lean. Lean means it will run hotter. Check out the things others have told you to check and if all those things are good get rid of the street tuner. If you want to stay with Harley products go with the SEPST(pro super tuner). It will allow a good dyno tech to tune the bike. There are other flash tuners out there that work just as well.

 

rent a trailer and get the bike to the closest competing dealer.