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bike wont sart , any ideas

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  #11  
Old 02-21-2016, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by frozensoul
its the one that was in it when I bought the bike, its a 2012 road glide custom
Could be time.
 
  #12  
Old 02-21-2016, 03:37 PM
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A digital voltage meter is a nice and very inexpensive tool to keep on your bike.
For Free with a harbor freight coupon or under $10 you can check for things like continuity or voltage.
A very simple, side of the road test would be to place the digital voltage meter positive lead to starter post and negative lead to any ground...no need to remove seat or use any other tool.
Then hit start button while looking at meter...if it goes under 10 volts d/c when cranking, there is a good change battery is giving-up the ghost.
It would also allow you to check charge system since it should read about 14 volts d/c at high idle.
 
  #13  
Old 02-21-2016, 03:47 PM
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check connections on the battery cables, both ends
 
  #14  
Old 02-21-2016, 05:04 PM
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Same thing happened to me last fall and after a new fob battery my problem went away.
Don't quite understand what is going on with your battery so if it were me I'd take it out, charge it and load test it. Do you keep a battery tender on it this winter?
Good Luck
 
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:31 PM
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If its the Fob battery when you push the start button, your security light will flash. If so time for some new batteries. Might be a good time to just replace them anyway


I'm not sure if the 12's have the neutral switch on the clutch lever, that may have failed. You can test it by putting the bike in Neutral if it starts, it might be your neutral switch.


As stated, check the battery connections then pull the battery and have it load tested to check and see if its done. advance auto, auto zone or any battery store will do this for free.


If it wont start in neutral, the battery tests good, and your fob batteries are good, I would think it's either in the kill switch or the starter button.


Good Luck, let us know what it ends up being.
 
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:27 PM
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took screws out of battery cables and clean contact area, put screws back in and bike starts twice then right back to doing nothing. have battery checked in morning
 
  #17  
Old 02-21-2016, 10:01 PM
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I'd replace the bike battery regardless. IMO, the probability of battery failure after 3 seasons of riding increases dramatically.......and you know it's going to crap out in someplace like alongside the Dan Ryan Expressway on a hot, muggy July afternoon. You may never be heard from again. Think preventitive maintenance.
 
  #18  
Old 02-21-2016, 10:56 PM
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Like the others have said if you don't own a voltmeter you should get one. Some real easy tests could help you trouble shoot problems like this. For instance if you charged the battery and it shows 12.7 volts it should be 100% charged. If you check the battery voltage while the bike is cranking and you see it dip to 9.6 v or lower the battery needs to be replaced.
Good Luck

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Mu...10709/14521541
 
  #19  
Old 02-22-2016, 08:26 AM
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If the fob is not present, the fuel pump will not cycle.

Sounds like a bad battery.

Pull it, and take it to an auto parts store, they'll test it for free.
 
  #20  
Old 02-22-2016, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by frozensoul
its the one that was in it when I bought the bike, its a 2012 road glide custom
Charge the bikes battery until fully charged. Then let it set for 24 hours and put a meter on the battery to check the charge.

A voltage reading of 12.8 volts or greater would indicate a 100% charge. If anything less, consider replacing the battery. It does not get better over time. A 4 year old battery is on borrowed time.

It is hard to tell from my chair, but I think you need to rule out a bad battery before you go much further in your troubleshooting efforts.

The FOB battery is a 2032. You can get them at a Dollar store for a couple of bucks each. Change out every year at daylight savings time when you change your smoke detector batteries out.
 

Last edited by Retrop; 02-22-2016 at 09:03 AM.


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