((3)) questions. I am considering lowering my 2012 Ultra limited. I hope to gain a little better stopped and low speed stability. I want to know the pros and cons of doing this. It is my plan to only lower the rear-end((?)) . should I use lowering blocks (kit)cost around $50 for the stock air shocks, OR should I buy new dial adjusting lowering shocks cost about $450 ((?)) *I figure I could try the kit and if I like it always upgrade to the better new shocks..... any thoughts ((?))will HELP me out with this

 

When I bought my current ride my wife took over my 2006 Ultra. In order for her to ride it, we had to lower it. I used lowering blocks on the rear and the HD lowering spring kit on the front.
Fast forward a couple years. I installed a Glide Pro motor mount and swing arm bushing kit. When I removed the stock swing arm bushings, I found that they were extremely oval shaped instead of round. I believe this was from using lowering blocks on the rear. By swinging the bottom end of the shock to the rear in order to lower the rear end, it puts more forward pressure on the swing arm bushing causing it to elongate. Just my theory. I then removed the lowering blocks and replaced them with 1" lower shocks.
I wish I would have taken pictures of the elongated swing arm bushings to show how bad they were elongated.

 

I lowered my 12 Ultra by just replacing the 13" stock rear air shocks with Progressive brand 12" shocks. I don't recall the model of shock, but they cost somewhere around $250, I think. The Progressive shocks have the 2-stage springs where they're supposed to "sit" at a lower 12" height, but you still have the full 13" of travel on rebound. Just lowering the rear about an 1" was enough for me and made a noticeable difference in the balance point.

If there was any difference in the ride, it's so minimal I don't notice it. I also can't detect any change in steering because of just lowering the rear and not the front. A change in steering geometry is more noticeable on something like a sport bike. On our heavy cruisers, that type of change is barely even noticeable... for me anyway.

 

I've done 11 1/2" Progressives to my 12' Ultra but a stagecoach ride would be welcome after. Did blocks for a very short time ...... ended up trading both (shocks and blocks) for the stock 12" SGS Premium shocks ............ all good now.

 

I believe those are the progressive 944's.

 

You'll be fine lowering the rear by an inch and leave the forks as they are, that is how the SGs come. As for how to lower the rear I would personally use suitable shocks. Do you ride solo or with Mrs M as well?

 

Thanks to all posters so far........I ride 85% solo. 15% 2up
If the Street Glides have that same 1" drop feel then I could sit on one and get the feel................? Follow up Question (S) to everyone. should I stick with OEM or aftermarket? several have mentioned (a shock called Progressive) AND what about scraping or bottoming out?

 

Mrs M will thank you for buying aftermarket. There are zillions of threads around HDF on shocks, which you could read through for ever! If you want a quick choice and to NEVER bottom out, contact HDF sponsor Howard at Motorcycle Metal, who will custom build you some suitable short shocks.

 

Make sure you sit on a 13' or earlier. The Rushmores have a higher stance!

 

I have blocks on mine. 1" lower. I was not flatfooted at the dealer so he put them on for me. They are fine and I didnt lose any shock travel doing it. They are coming off after I have my seat done at mean city cycles. Hes going to drop me a couple of inches. Best route to flat foot. I would not put shorter shocks on that bike. The ride wont be the same. I ride a 12 as well and the ride is great.