Clutch Went and Metal Shavings in Primary
#21
01-05-2016 | 06:03 PM
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 483
Likes: 23
From: Orlando, FL
No real trick to it. I just did mine last week. Leftie loosey, righty tighty. It's not torqued very much unless someone over tightened it.
#23
01-05-2016 | 06:15 PM
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 14
From: Seattle
#26
01-05-2016 | 06:33 PM
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 19
From: Mishawaka,Indiana
hub nut is l/h thread, adj nut r/h thread. excerpt from manual
NOTE
Clutch hub mainshaft nut has left-hand threads.
5. Clean and prime threads of mainshaft nut and apply two
drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to the
threads. Start nut onto mainshaft and hand-tighten.
NOTE
The following step requires that PRIMARY DRIVE LOCKING
TOOL (Part No. HD-48219) be reversed during the procedure.
Back to the original problem. adjustments don't usually change to drastic unless something failed, I would disassemble and check the mainshaft splines, I have seen the splines shear off. That metal came from somewhere
NOTE
Clutch hub mainshaft nut has left-hand threads.
5. Clean and prime threads of mainshaft nut and apply two
drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to the
threads. Start nut onto mainshaft and hand-tighten.
NOTE
The following step requires that PRIMARY DRIVE LOCKING
TOOL (Part No. HD-48219) be reversed during the procedure.
Back to the original problem. adjustments don't usually change to drastic unless something failed, I would disassemble and check the mainshaft splines, I have seen the splines shear off. That metal came from somewhere
Last edited by rmc115; 01-05-2016 at 06:52 PM.
#27
01-05-2016 | 07:09 PM
you're assuming that they didn't do the work, when the assumption that you should be making is that they did, but they only put in the 32oz like a lot of old techs do, instead of the 38oz spec. I think that if they didn't change it at all, that it would look a lot dirtier than it does. after 5k, my primary oil is a lot darker than that. I don't get as much 'fuzz' as you have, but that doesn't necessarily indicate a problem.
put the bike in gear, have someone sit on it, and hold the brake.
for getting the proper torque on it when tightening, I use a t-handle allen key, and a 'pass-through' socket from craftsman.
put the bike in gear, have someone sit on it, and hold the brake.
for getting the proper torque on it when tightening, I use a t-handle allen key, and a 'pass-through' socket from craftsman.
Yeah tried that and not working. Going to have to get a 11/16" deep socket, lock the drive, and use my breaker bar. That **** is not coming off and I am just tearing up the outside of the nut at this point, so need a deep socket and will have to replace that nut when I get it off.
Thankfully there are no pieces of metal in the primary at all even after running a fridge magnet through there, so I am guessing it just came way out of alignment.
Now the question comes down to if I want to just upgrade that clutch to a better one when I am in there or not since I have the primary off and am in there.
#28
01-05-2016 | 07:15 PM
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 846
Likes: 30
From: Mile 49.5 Alaska Hwy. B.C.
hub nut is l/h thread, adj nut r/h thread. excerpt from manual
NOTE
Clutch hub mainshaft nut has left-hand threads.
5. Clean and prime threads of mainshaft nut and apply two
drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to the
threads. Start nut onto mainshaft and hand-tighten.
NOTE
The following step requires that PRIMARY DRIVE LOCKING
TOOL (Part No. HD-48219) be reversed during the procedure.
Back to the original problem. adjustments don't usually change to drastic unless something failed, I would disassemble and check the mainshaft splines, I have seen the splines shear off. That metal came from somewhere
NOTE
Clutch hub mainshaft nut has left-hand threads.
5. Clean and prime threads of mainshaft nut and apply two
drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to the
threads. Start nut onto mainshaft and hand-tighten.
NOTE
The following step requires that PRIMARY DRIVE LOCKING
TOOL (Part No. HD-48219) be reversed during the procedure.
Back to the original problem. adjustments don't usually change to drastic unless something failed, I would disassemble and check the mainshaft splines, I have seen the splines shear off. That metal came from somewhere
#29
01-05-2016 | 07:19 PM
One thing that just dawned on me is that they may have done this before and put that red loctite on there. So I will have to apply some heat to it, sounds bad though because judging by all the things I have seen today and read there are all sorts of seals behind it that may melt.
