Lost my cam chain tensioner last weekend which proceeded to blow out the chain,the crank gearand wasted the crankshaft too. The top end was not damaged. Since I have to split the cases should I upgrade to a 103" stroker? I'm running 10 1/2-1 pistons &screaming eagle heads. I was getting 100Hp & 100 Tq Lbs. I definitely am going togear drive cams, my wrench recommended S&S 585G? If I change the flywheel then I'll have to change pistons. Is it worth the$$ for 5 or 6 more HP?? and probably less MPG??
THANKS!!
RAY

 

Personally I'm a fan of cubic inches. The cost of the stroker wheels and pistons is not much compared to replacing with stock stroke. I think you stand to gain more than 5 to 6 hp by going to a 103", but it would depend on the heads. If money is a concern, and you were happy with the 95" configuration, I would just put it back together like it was. But if you have some money to throw at it, might as well get a better set of heads, more cam, and maybe a better throttle body. 120hp and tq is not uncommon for a 103".

 

Yeah thanks for the reply. I'm a big fan of cu.inches too! I'll have to sit down and put an estimate together with the guy. I'm hoping to get some help from HD warranty. This shop I went to says "I guarantee I'll get it covered?? so I should know tomorrow. If I get that help I'll probably go with the full 103" You don't think the SE heads are the way to go? I was just going to have them cleaned up, they have 27K on them. Changing the throttle body, I guess that's where I'll lose the MPG? I do a lot of road trips, I get about 35mpg now and would hate to drop down to 25mpg but I guess that's one of the sacrifices for the extra c.i.
thanks again!

 

While not anexpert on the throttle bodies, I have learned it's a basic requirement to upgrade your throttle body from the stock size when running in the 120+ hp range or you'll starve the cylinders/heads from air and fuel. I just ordered a 107" kit and was told to change the throttle body to an HP Inc 54mm unit, and also to install the larger 4.93 gps injectors from Screamin Eagle. If your stock heads are okto you and you have a set of pistons that work with them, they will perform decently, but if you want a better performing head, maybe take a look at the Castings from www.gmrperformance.com

They are shipping my combo this week and Steve recommended the same S&S 585 gear drive setup for mine. Good luck with your build and know that if done right, you can make much more than the conservative 5-6 hp you referred to. Later!

 

This might not be totally correct, but what I've seen is; if you do any up grade besides just a cam and gear drive for the cams, you need to give up the idea that gas mileage is part of your plan. More cubic inches, head work, cams, larger Throttle bodies, doesn't equal better gas mileage.

 

ditto bay13. After an insurance settlement for a minor collision, I'm sticking with my 95" stock lower end and flowing the SE Heads add forged pistons, .005" over 1550, S&S gear drive cams, Supertrapp 2-into-1,PCIII, etc.Afriend of minerides a 2004 SE FLHRI 103 and I don't want that kind of fuel range - and I don't like the look of 6-gallon tanks. The HP and torque of a worked 95 will come very close to 103 engines, IMHO. If I was REALLY smart, I would have done these upgrades to a stock 88 and saved a ton of money back then. The heads are the core of any engine mod, not the CC size.

 

Thanks for the input guys! I think your right it's either performance or Mpg? I'll probably replace my flywheel with another stock one my buddy will give me for nadda since he did a 103". Stick with the 10.5 forged pistons, clean up the SE heads and replace the cams with gear S&S 585G's and see what happens. Is there any benefitto the new PC3 USB compared to the old other then the way it hooks up to a computer??
thx!

 

There is a huge advantage to the PCIII USB, it allows you to tune each cylinder individually. Of course, this is only good if you have a tuner that has the skill and will devote the time to making it right. Make sure you check your valve to piston clearance as well as rocker box clearance with the new cams. Good luck, I'm sure it will be a runner once you get it back together. Your changing all the oil lines too right?

 

Educate me Biggzed. Why change the oil lines?

 

It's cheap insurance whenever you've had a failure like that. You never know if there are little pieces of metal stuck in those lines. It would suck to get that motor put back together, only to have some tiny piece of metal that had been sitting in the oil lines jam your oil pump and cause another catastrophic failure. I've also heard of guys just removing them and flushing them out real good. Not sure what they use though.