You're going to tell a guy to build a 113 with stock throttle body and heads, bad advise. You're asking that guy to leave a whole lot of potential on the table, head work is always one of your biggest bangs for the dollar. My 06 Ultra is a daily rider, I sure wouldn't have built the 120 and used stock heads and throttle body. I spent the money on head work and a 55mm HPI throttle body, it was money well spent, especially when you twist the wick.

As for the Harley crank in the 120's, not hard to find folks with issues http://www.*****************/forums/...10k-miles.html
http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=86028.0

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=76729.0

 

Your running a 55 on a 120, your 06 stock tb would have been a 46mm. He can run his 50 on a 110 or a 113 without any problem. He will have better low end with his 50 rather than a 55, the 55 would give more high end but how often are you running over 120 or 130 mph. And running a 110 in a touring bike for street use, the 110 heads flow good enough out of the box for street use. If you want a race bike then do have them ported and polished. The cost for gain imo is not there for a street bike. That's what I said. You don't have to agree.

 

I guess things get a little confusing when you mention stock heads, and now you're talking about the 110 heads. The heads all depend on which 110 kit one chooses. They have one bolt on kit which maintains the stock heads as they came on the bike, the other includes the 110 heads. If he chooses the 110 tire shredder kit, it comes with the 110 heads and a 58mm throttle body. The 110 stage III uses the existing throttle body and stock heads, IMO I'd have the head work done and choose a larger throttle body. Why go through all the work and leave power and torque on the table. I've never regretted having head work done, I have however regretted not having it done.

Like you said, "you don't have to agree".

 

This has been a good discussion. The choices I was considering were both 110" Stage V Tire Shredders. One is street legal and one is rated as race only. The HD documentation shows the street legal at 10.2:1 and the race at 10.5:1.

 

I have a 110" that is now a 113" with headwork etc. Squeeze is set at 10.8:1 Runs all day long. No heat issues. A GOOD tune and you wont have issues.

 

I have the 110 Stage V Pro kit. It comes with bolt on 110 jugs, CNC ported heads & performance springs, Forged pistons, 10:5 CR, Larger throttle body and injectors and a few other things. I went with the 585 SE cams instead of 295s. Won't have a full dyno till I log 1500 miles but have 500 on it so far so I can open it up more now. Damn thing jumps off the line like crazy, almost don't need to use first gear. It does seem to nose off a little after 4700 RPM but I'm still not pushing it that hard after that. I am hoping it with have a little more top end once it is dynoed. Haven't had any problems with over heating or detonation so far but it's not mid summer so we will see. I have a D&D Fat Cat Exhaust on it.

 

That dying at 4700 is the 585 cam. The 595 would have put it out further. It's what you prefer, top end or bottom end. The 585 is giving you about the middle, get upwards 600 it goes more to top end, you down towards a 575 you get more low end trq side.
I'm running a 577 I swapped in for a 598 just for the low end trq. I have a 110 in my roadie. 10:5 pistons, no head work, 54mm tb, 4.9 injectors. I could do more and get more out of it but I bought stuff here and there off craigslist and eBay. Just threw it together sorta. I don't run wide open but I like to get out of the hole sometimes and she will still get out to about 130 pretty quick. My coworker has a 2012 SESG he bumped it to a 113, 58mm and a 575 cam. Belt breaker out of the hole, low end trq is high but his top end suffers.

 

Biggest thing that helps is to read read read. Find out what the components do and how they give power. How the size effects the output. Bigger tb is not always the best. Bigger cam is not always best for what you want. Everything has to work together. A good builder will be able to talk to you and explain what you need to get out what you want. If he can't, find someone else.

 

Are you talking about Screaming Eagle cams or someone else's? Mine our SE cams, even with that I was told I shouldn't go with anymore lift than 584". Not a cam expert but the next cam up from HD has 609" lift.

 

If he's breaking belts, something isn't right. There are a lot more powerful builds running a stock belt and not breaking it. The 120 in my 06 Ultra is at 110ft/lbs before 2,500 rpm, it has the original belt which has seen rolling burnouts, launches and wheelies.