Fuel was NOT OK. This should have been road tested with a gauge hooked up and it would have been obvious what the issue was. Somebody didn't do their job!

This is why I do everything myself...

OP, glad it's done, and you can enjoy the 3 days of riding weather we've still got left : )

 

Glad you got it fixed! Happy to help...

 

ThiS has been an interesting read and learning experence. 6 pages / 52 posts and looking back - JAXDWG nailed it in post #2
During a service on my 04 - forget which one? - filter was to be changed - when i learned where HD put the filter - i wanted to find that engineer amd spank them, LOL - they had to be rhe same designers that bult the Jets I worked on while in tne US Navy back in 68 - lol
I now have a 2015 - can i assume Filter is still IN the same spot?

Glad the OP got ot fixed - Congrats to Jaxdwg

 

why not a in line fuel filter. im sure an engineer can design one for a fuel injected bike. the set up on the Harleys is horrible. this is something that should be quick and easy access. dont get it.

 

If you look at the original FI system, there were two hoses going to the tank. Harley monerized and compacted it for the best. This enabled them to compact all in the tank. The filter is first and the pump remains small since it is cooled by fuel and there is no suction head.
It's no big deal to get to.

The system normally runs all the time when the gas motor runs maintaining apx 65 lbs pressure by the bleed off in the tank. This does the idle along with WOT operation.
Normally, as the filter stops up which is quite rare unless some dumps a lot of additives or trash in tank, the pressure check will show a problem. However, there is no way to check just how much surplus is bleeding off. If the 65 gets low at idle, bike will not idle. OP's had 65 so it idled. However, at WOT, it had no surplus and was running out of fuel. He did not say but I bet if they did not flush tank, there is a lot of stuff in bottom. The call out for the fuel filter now is 100K. However, it use to be a 1/3 of that but was not normally necessary and will not disable a bike.

Up at post 2 when fuel pressure was checked, you would have though if the throttle was opened, it would have dipped the pressure if it was checked correctly.

 

When you stated that the problem came on slowly, you did diagnose the problem, you just didn't know it. Whenever I get on the freeway I open that throttle and let her wind up in 3rd. If she pulls good, my filter is good. If not, it's time to change it. I don't go by miles because I could pick up funky gas at any time and have a clogging problem. I keep a spare on the shelf, just in case. Glad you're smiling again.
Ps: I try to buy my gas at high volume gas stations because they are constantly getting fresh, clean gas-- hopefully. Mom & pop places often go weeks without a fresh load, and often have a lot of sediment in their tanks.

 

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Approx how many miles were on the fuel filter when the motor 1st started acting up ?

Scott

 

And I would almost bet you didn't need the pump, just the filter, because the first dealer you went to said the pressure was fine, but didn't check it on the run. If a pump will meet required pressure, it will almost always put out the volume if no restriction exists. Jmo

 

At the risk of going against the grain here I would like to see you skip the dielectric grease on the contacts. It is really not made for that sort of application because it will attract dust and grime etc. I know there are people who use it for that sort of thing but the manufacturer says otherwise. Maybe a little contact cleaner sprayed into the area followed by a stiff paint brush or toothbrush if you feel the need to do something. The most common proper usage for dielectric grease is using it on spark plug boots.

I think the fuel filter has to be checked before you go much further.

 

Electricity takes every path not the one of least resistance.