Its a bit of a thread fork, but I agree with cleaning - I spray the **** out of them with brake clean and get in there with a soft tooth brush.

 

I will remove the calipers and clean as you say. I am not new to maintenance to a motorcycles seeing I perform all my own work. It just seems strange for me after owning and working on my past 14 motorcycles of all types from Suzuki /Hayabusa to Harley Davidson, I have never ran across this situation especially that the wheel turns freely when checked. Butt, anything is possible so I will give it hell.

Im always open for suggestions, as to why I asked the forum the question in the first place. Now after performing this maintenance, Im assuming the damage is already done to the rotors and will have to be replaced again.

Hogpro, you are correct on the RC Components Calypso rims. Are you suggesting I go with a non-floating rotors?

 

I straightened my rotors got them with in .005 with one pull on wrench over couple strips of steel. Just marked the spot that was in the most. These where solid rotors so floaters might be a whole different deal without being connected to center. Worth a try if your going to replace anyway & plan to get indicator.

 

Hub surface being out of round is highly unlikely. Is this a chrome or black wheel? Powder coated or balck ano? Lots of factors in rotors feeling like that but my guess is it is jsut those crappy Harley Floaters.

I have some polished Galfer wave rotors here that will not warp. Period. They are $225 each at introductory pricing. Or, post a pic of your wheel and I'll see what I have that actually matches. I need more info to help you.

Change the brake pads too, they are likely worn unevenly and usually brake pistons start to stick in the calipers which can contribute to the warped feel.

 

Pads where just replaced 3000 miles ago along with the rotors. The wheels are chrome and in new condition.

I'm going to try cleaning the pistons first as suggested earlier in thread this coming weekend and see if it helps. If not, I may be in the market for new rotors.

Which is better, floating or non floating. Just don't want to spend another chunk of change and end up with the same situation.

See attached pic for type and design

 

another way to check rotors is to remove them and lay on a piece of plate glass.

and go around teh edge with a feeler gauge.

as mentioned before holding hot pads in one part of a rotor can overheat and warp it.


the early 90's ford taurus and sable were particularly bad until after about 4 years ford redesigned the rotors- most of the complaints were from the rental agencies- a big customer.

Mike

 

Thanks for calling. It was a pleasure speaking with you. Let me know what happens once you clean the brake pistons.

 

Will do Hogpro, and thanks guys for all you comments. Will let you know how it turns out.

As the rotor turns

 

Well took the brakes apart last night and yes they where dirty. But what I did notice, is one side was dirty than the other and upon disassemble of that side, I found the brake pad had a burr on it which was creating an un-even braking surface.

Which leads me to believe that this may have caused the pulsation. Looks like something got in between the pad and rotor causing this issue.

Cleaned pistons with Brake-Kleen, sanded pads, and cleaned rotors as smokindave had suggested, (thanks Dave)

Put it all back together and will test drive tonight. Didn't get a chance last night.

Hate when that happens

 

Hey Rick, let us know how the test drive goes.

When was the last time you bled the brake lines and master cylinder and put in clean brake fluid? Speed bleeders make this a real easy task. Dragging brakes boil the brake fluid in the calipers.