2005 ultra
went out to go home from work, turn on ingition ,,switch to run , hit start button ,,NOTHING,,,turn offf ing,,switch to stop ,, repeat ,,NOTHING,, then i turn on the ing, switch to run ,, NOTHING,, so i hold the start button and rock the run stop botton back and forth and it finally hit, so i suspect the run stop switch is shorting out, what do you think??? are they a PITA to change out,? can you buy just the run stop switch alone or is it a cluster?? plug and play or the ends at the switch need to be soldered??

thanks mike

 

when you first turned on ignition and switched to run, did the fuel pump prime?



Mike

 

lights ,,warning lights,, every thing but the start switch,,after rocking the run stop switch while holding the start button it finally hit,, as far as the fuel pump i dont really know had allready had my helmet on with the music playing, so i can't really ansewer that one

thanks mike

 

went out and turn ign. on and run on and the fuel pump did cycle and it turns over,, so mabe just a one time fluke,,, but something had to cause it.

can you arc the starter like a car to start it ?? in case it happens again??

thanks mike

 

yes.

get a 3 foot piece of wire and put a terminal on one end.

pull the green wire off the starter solenoid and put your wire on the solenoid terminal

make SURE the bike is in N and stable.

touch the other end of the wire to the Battery + terminal and it'll crank

for bonus points if you have a battery tender pigtail, you may be able to use the recessed plug for power...if the fuse in the pigtail is low value it could pop though.

mike

 

thanks i'll rig one up to carry,, by the way does this sound like a stop run switch going south? or some thing else.

thanks mike

 

Have you made any mods to your bike recently, disturbed the handlebars or control levers/switches? You may have a wiring problem, with a trapped or damaged wire. As for the switch, use that length of wire to diagnose the problem and isolate where the fault lies (even better use a multimeter!). If the switch is faulty it is available as a spare part, although it does come at around 60 bucks.

 

for testing a circuit like this, a trouble light is better than a meter...a meter may show '"oltage" but it could be at very low current. ( for example all the strands in a wire broken but for one...it'll show continuity, it'll show voltage...but it may not light a bulb)

a trouble light applies a load ( the lamp) and if it doesn;t light- then you know the circuit is bad.

to expand...a trouble light at the green wire pulled off the solenoid, can show if the solenoid is getting power when you hit the switch.

this tests:

system relay
kill switch
start switch
starter relay
and associated wiring

this grouping of parts makes up the starter primary circuit (light current demand, thin wire)

the starter secondary circuit is the solenoid and starter motor windings...which is all high current ( heavy demand, thick wire).

OP the starter relay should also 'click" when you hit the start button- try unplugging and replugging this to clean the contacts.

some riders have failed starter relays...I never have had an auto relay fail in any of my many cars, trucks and bikes...I have had the relay plug contacts get dirty though.


It any case with this piece of wire you can always get going if there is a problem with teh starter primary circuit...you replace that with your jumper wire. and once started you put the wire away in teh bag

mike

 

Would check the battery cables first. Could be a loose poor connection. Enough to drive all except starter solenoid. As you kept trying, the loose connection heated up the sorry connection expanding it to make. That on/off switch is pretty low amp and should be OK. Know you are suppose to use it but I never do. Just the key switch.

 

cool thanks for the info
no mods ever on this bike, but will trouble shoot some stuff this weekend

thanks mike