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07 Street Glide Running Like Crap

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  #21  
Old 09-08-2015, 07:15 PM
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DONT unplug the pc111 UNLESS u have 02 sensors in those sampsons, u will have to remove the pc111 terminators from the 02 sensor wires and plug them back into the sensors. first try the iac, then unplug (but dont run the motor) the pc111 and clean the connections and apply dielectric grease, if that doesn't help have the dealer check the tps, tps if bad or out of adjustment will cause bad idol.
 
  #22  
Old 09-08-2015, 07:17 PM
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went through this with my 07 2 times first was iac 2nd was tps adjuster screw came loose and backed out, didn't throw code till it got really bad then gave a loss of idol control code.
 
  #23  
Old 09-08-2015, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdumbnoitall00
went through this with my 07 2 times first was iac 2nd was tps adjuster screw came loose and backed out, didn't throw code till it got really bad then gave a loss of idol control code.
I had the tps adjuster screw back out on me a few years ago. I hit red line coming off the interstate in first gear, scariest thing I ever experienced on a bike. I don't have O2 sensors on the Samsons nor were there any on the Rineharts I took off. The main issue is the hard start which appears to have been solved and the idle seems where it should be. Appreciate the info.
 
  #24  
Old 09-08-2015, 10:57 PM
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nvsteve wrote above:
[[ On the 07's with PC111s (and maybe some other years) if you don't hit the start button almost immediately it will take several cranks to start. Try hitting the button immediately after turning on the ignition switch. ]]

Very interesting that you posted this...
... because that's how my 2007 Road Glide with a PCIIIusb behaves. That is to say, it takes 4-5 crank revolutions before it usually fires up.

Actually, I've found the best way to start it is:
- turn ignition on, wait for fuel pump to build pressure
- press start for about 3 engine revolutions and release (never fires with just 3)
- press start again and it generally fires within one or two cranks.

I never tried "the quick way" that you mentioned above, I thought you were supposed to wait a few seconds for the fuel line to pressurize. But I'll have to give that a test and see what happens.
 
  #25  
Old 09-09-2015, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Fishrrman
nvsteve wrote above:
[[ On the 07's with PC111s (and maybe some other years) if you don't hit the start button almost immediately it will take several cranks to start. Try hitting the button immediately after turning on the ignition switch. ]]

Very interesting that you posted this...
... because that's how my 2007 Road Glide with a PCIIIusb behaves. That is to say, it takes 4-5 crank revolutions before it usually fires up.

Actually, I've found the best way to start it is:
- turn ignition on, wait for fuel pump to build pressure
- press start for about 3 engine revolutions and release (never fires with just 3)
- press start again and it generally fires within one or two cranks.

I never tried "the quick way" that you mentioned above, I thought you were supposed to wait a few seconds for the fuel line to pressurize. But I'll have to give that a test and see what happens.
No. It's not necessary to wait. Dynojet addressed this in 07. I've been doing it that way on my 07 since then with no issues. Starts immediately.
 
  #26  
Old 09-09-2015, 11:20 AM
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Curious what you have found so far. I would start with the free and then low cost fixes you can do yourself. First, have a load test done on the battery. I have had a situation where the battery would have barely enough amperage to start the bike but not enough to keep the ECM powered up on start-ups. It was impossible to re-initiate the ECM with the "on its way out" battery. The idle speed is set upon re-initiation of the ECM. With a new battery, all my idle, stalling issues disappeared. Just something else to consider along with the good tips already mentioned.
Good luck!
 
  #27  
Old 09-09-2015, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by E8USMCRET
I cleaned IAC and filter. Tried a start and just kept turning then a caugh out the breather. Disconnected the PCIII and it started right up with just one caugh. It idled a little high for a few seconds then dropped to around 1000. I shut it down and restarted with no issues or caughing for three starts. I'll leave the PCIII off for now and see how it goes. Will there be any noticeable change in performance (other than the hard starts of course) that will be noticeable with it disconnected?
The tuner is there to richen the lean air/fuel mixture that occurs when you increase airflow with slips ons and a high flow air cleaner. Without it, you're going to run lean. You never said if you tried to pull the codes.
 
  #28  
Old 09-09-2015, 12:09 PM
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Need to clean the throttle body. Remove the air cleaner, Pour some Seafoam on a rag and thoroughly clean the intake and the butterfly. Will make huge difference in idle.
 
  #29  
Old 09-09-2015, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by just plain john
The tuner is there to richen the lean air/fuel mixture that occurs when you increase airflow with slips ons and a high flow air cleaner. Without it, you're going to run lean. You never said if you tried to pull the codes.
I'll try and see if there's some codes that come up tonight. Thanks.
 
  #30  
Old 09-09-2015, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by just plain john
The tuner is there to richen the lean air/fuel mixture that occurs when you increase airflow with slips ons and a high flow air cleaner. Without it, you're going to run lean. You never said if you tried to pull the codes.
With only slipons and an AC he should be fine. Especially for testing purposes.
 


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