It is a stump puller. Peak torque us at 3000 RPM. But, peak HP is at 5000 RPM, at least on my motor.

 

That cam is bad *** when right, find someone to tweak the tune and hang on.

 

Dang right, I agree GrandPoohBah, I have the SE255's in my 96.

The SE255's do a terrific job at what they are designed for, "TORQUE".

They made a huge difference in my bike. I ride two up 75% of the time and the SE255's get the lead sled moving in quick order. Making power in the rpm range I mostly ride in.

I think the OP has a cam timing problem, like maybe one or both cams a tooth out of time.

 

Cliff: your are dead nuts on. all the posts mentioning how good the 255 is, and how it's a stump puller are also completely correct (I had a set at one time in my 05 Road King, and loved them), but ASSUMING they were aligned correctly during install, there IS going to be a concomitant drop in" power" in the really low end RPM range with even a slightly more aggressive cam other than stock, if compression isn't also boosted at the same time. They have to build compression up to a certain RPM range before they're making power, correct?

What the OP didn't mention, is at what RPM range he's releasing the clutch, and expecting the motor to be making power at the same time.

I have a stock engine other than the addition of TW-222 cams. I have all the periphery stuff around them on the outside of the engine that one would expect, but I discovered this concept to be true in my own situation. My buddy that has the same bike that I do, but without cams, will out pull me every time right off the line, but after 2700 RPM, I'm gone.

Good post that seems to have been glossed right over; the laws of physics are not relative and cannot be overcome by even a good tune (which I do have, but isn't seen until about 2500-2700 RPM). At 2000 RPM, my cams are utterly anemic due to a lack of compression to drive them, but my buddy's stock cams are just kicking into gear.

 

The se255 and tw222 cams are designed for use in low compression(under 10:0 to 1) engines. If you add compression they become very hard to tune and produce a lot of heat due to excessive cylinder pressure. There are many other choices of cams that would produce better power when adding compression.

 

You don't need higher compression for a se255. That's something you would do with a high duration, aggressive profile cam that needs to overcome valvle overlap.

 

Agreed...

I had my SE255 cams installed prior to delivery, to get the benefit of warranty on my '12 Limited. Even with the HD download tune, they ran well. A couple years later I changed to a fuelmoto tune, with a couple auto tunes, and they run excellent!

OP- I'm guessing you need a good tune!

 

What they said.

And your true-duals and CFR Mufflers aren't doing any favors .. both have bad reps in the tuning community
You have two of the major components (Cam&Exhaust) that are both limited in their appeal.. the 255 make lots of Low End Torque but sign off early and do little for HP. The TrueDuals only work over a very narrow range and are known to adversely affect Low End Torque .. the will work "acceptably" at a narrow range of higher RPM's and they "Sound Great"

IMO your Cam & Pipe are working against each other.
Swap one or the other or both.

 

I've got the 255's and true duals w/ S&S Quiet Tour mufflers in my 2012 limited. It pulls like a tractor right off idle. you've got something wrong but it isn't the setup.

 

You mentioned you had a super tuner, being the cams are harley, there going to be a map in the software download very close, do a couple of runs in Smart Tune mode and it should get you close. the software is free, you already have the VCI, buy the cables on line. Knowing the importance of the timing marks on the cam sprocket, either someone had to many beers, or didn't know it was required. measure 3 times cut once