Testing regulator, need help
#12
09-07-2015 | 08:56 PM
Well it looks like it wasn't the regulator. I did the diode test on the new one and got the same results. 350 on one combination, 1 on the other three. I guess all the regulator tests I'm looking at don't apply to these regulators. I installed the new one and I am only getting a little more than 13 volts DC at the battery with the engine at 3,000 rpm. I put it all together and took it for a ride. When I turn the spots, radio, and bag lights on the volt meter on the dash drops to 12V at idle.
I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it and check anything else tonight. Hopefully I'll get a chance tomorrow night.
I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it and check anything else tonight. Hopefully I'll get a chance tomorrow night.
#13
09-09-2015 | 10:13 PM
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 267
Likes: 19
From: south
Well it looks like it wasn't the regulator. I did the diode test on the new one and got the same results. 350 on one combination, 1 on the other three. I guess all the regulator tests I'm looking at don't apply to these regulators. I installed the new one and I am only getting a little more than 13 volts DC at the battery with the engine at 3,000 rpm. I put it all together and took it for a ride. When I turn the spots, radio, and bag lights on the volt meter on the dash drops to 12V at idle.
I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it and check anything else tonight. Hopefully I'll get a chance tomorrow night.
I didn't have a lot of time to mess with it and check anything else tonight. Hopefully I'll get a chance tomorrow night.
#14
09-10-2015 | 08:31 AM
I just cleared the original code last night. I have not got any eng or batt lights since the first time.
I unplugged the stator last night and checked the leads with the meter set to ohms. I had 0.0 with the positive lead to each of the three wires and the ground on an engine bolt. Some things I read say it is not supposed to be grounded, but that was a different type stator, "check two wires"
I also checked the stator side of the new regulator and I am getting 12 volts there. Seems the old diagnostic threads I am reading do not work for the 2008 Touring models ??
I unplugged the stator last night and checked the leads with the meter set to ohms. I had 0.0 with the positive lead to each of the three wires and the ground on an engine bolt. Some things I read say it is not supposed to be grounded, but that was a different type stator, "check two wires"
I also checked the stator side of the new regulator and I am getting 12 volts there. Seems the old diagnostic threads I am reading do not work for the 2008 Touring models ??
#15
09-10-2015 | 08:49 AM
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 267
Likes: 19
From: south
Vic,
I found this 2008 model info; hope it helps.
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-16. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-17. Remove ground lead. Check resistance
across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If the resistance is lower, it could indicate turn to turn
short.
Also, concerning your volt test, found this;
Current and Voltage Output Test: Using
Load Tester
1. See Figure 1-14. Connect load tester.
a. Connect negative and positive leads to battery terminals.
b. Place load tester induction pickup over positive regulator
cable.
2. Run the engine at 3000 RPM. Increase the load as
required to obtain a constant 13.0VDC. Do not leave any
load switch turned on for more than 20 seconds or overheating
and tester damage are possible.
3. The current output should be 35-50 amps. Make note of
measurement for use in TOTAL CURRENT DRAW TEST.
NOTE
Rider's habits may require output test at lower RPM.
4. See Figure 1-14. After removing the load, read the load
tester voltage meter.
a. If voltage to the battery is not more than 15V, voltage
output is within specifications. Investigate other possible
problems. See Charging System Test.
b. If voltage is higher, voltage regulator is not functioning
properly
I found this 2008 model info; hope it helps.
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-16. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-17. Remove ground lead. Check resistance
across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If the resistance is lower, it could indicate turn to turn
short.
Also, concerning your volt test, found this;
Current and Voltage Output Test: Using
Load Tester
1. See Figure 1-14. Connect load tester.
a. Connect negative and positive leads to battery terminals.
b. Place load tester induction pickup over positive regulator
cable.
2. Run the engine at 3000 RPM. Increase the load as
required to obtain a constant 13.0VDC. Do not leave any
load switch turned on for more than 20 seconds or overheating
and tester damage are possible.
3. The current output should be 35-50 amps. Make note of
measurement for use in TOTAL CURRENT DRAW TEST.
NOTE
Rider's habits may require output test at lower RPM.
4. See Figure 1-14. After removing the load, read the load
tester voltage meter.
a. If voltage to the battery is not more than 15V, voltage
output is within specifications. Investigate other possible
problems. See Charging System Test.
b. If voltage is higher, voltage regulator is not functioning
properly
#17
09-25-2015 | 03:29 AM
Had the stator replied. Indy claims he used a cycle electric. Great output now.
He said I was lucky I didn't burn up the new regulator which got me worried so I unplugged the stator side and I am still getting 12+ volts on the 3 posts of the regulator. When I asked him about it he said "it's fine" Sure hope so, don't want to have to go for another stator and regulator.
He said I was lucky I didn't burn up the new regulator which got me worried so I unplugged the stator side and I am still getting 12+ volts on the 3 posts of the regulator. When I asked him about it he said "it's fine" Sure hope so, don't want to have to go for another stator and regulator.
#18
08-08-2018 | 10:43 AM
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
#19
08-08-2018 | 12:42 PM
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Vic,
I found this 2008 model info; hope it helps.
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-16. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-17. Remove ground lead. Check resistance
across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If the resistance is lower, it could indicate turn to turn
short.
Also, concerning your volt test, found this;
Current and Voltage Output Test: Using
Load Tester
1. See Figure 1-14. Connect load tester.
a. Connect negative and positive leads to battery terminals.
b. Place load tester induction pickup over positive regulator
cable.
2. Run the engine at 3000 RPM. Increase the load as
required to obtain a constant 13.0VDC. Do not leave any
load switch turned on for more than 20 seconds or overheating
and tester damage are possible.
3. The current output should be 35-50 amps. Make note of
measurement for use in TOTAL CURRENT DRAW TEST.
NOTE
Rider's habits may require output test at lower RPM.
4. See Figure 1-14. After removing the load, read the load
tester voltage meter.
a. If voltage to the battery is not more than 15V, voltage
output is within specifications. Investigate other possible
problems. See Charging System Test.
b. If voltage is higher, voltage regulator is not functioning
properly
I found this 2008 model info; hope it helps.
Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-16. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-17. Remove ground lead. Check resistance
across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If the resistance is lower, it could indicate turn to turn
short.
Also, concerning your volt test, found this;
Current and Voltage Output Test: Using
Load Tester
1. See Figure 1-14. Connect load tester.
a. Connect negative and positive leads to battery terminals.
b. Place load tester induction pickup over positive regulator
cable.
2. Run the engine at 3000 RPM. Increase the load as
required to obtain a constant 13.0VDC. Do not leave any
load switch turned on for more than 20 seconds or overheating
and tester damage are possible.
3. The current output should be 35-50 amps. Make note of
measurement for use in TOTAL CURRENT DRAW TEST.
NOTE
Rider's habits may require output test at lower RPM.
4. See Figure 1-14. After removing the load, read the load
tester voltage meter.
a. If voltage to the battery is not more than 15V, voltage
output is within specifications. Investigate other possible
problems. See Charging System Test.
b. If voltage is higher, voltage regulator is not functioning
properly
AC OUTPUT- pass
GROUND TEST- pass
Resistance- 0.6 on all 3 wires...
does this sound okay??!
#20
08-09-2018 | 06:37 PM
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 364
Likes: 76
From: FL East Coast /Western NC
I had the eng light and battery light come on on my 2008 Ultra. Bike off I get 13.6 volts. Same at idle.
Stator continuity test was good. I unplugged the stator and had about 20 volts at each wire at idle.
I then check the stator side of the regulator and had about 12.6 volts at each of the posts.
Next I tried the diode test on the regulator. The only time I got a reading was with the neg lead from the meter to the pos socket of the charge side of the regulator, positive lead to each of the stator posts. 360 at all 3 stator posts. No readings at all with the other 3 combinations.
Does this sound like a bad regulator? Would I be safe trying a new regulator or would a bad stator burn it up?
Stator continuity test was good. I unplugged the stator and had about 20 volts at each wire at idle.
I then check the stator side of the regulator and had about 12.6 volts at each of the posts.
Next I tried the diode test on the regulator. The only time I got a reading was with the neg lead from the meter to the pos socket of the charge side of the regulator, positive lead to each of the stator posts. 360 at all 3 stator posts. No readings at all with the other 3 combinations.
Does this sound like a bad regulator? Would I be safe trying a new regulator or would a bad stator burn it up?