Apologies for the very late update....
Took bike to dealer to inquire about any recalls, nope. While there, it was noticed state inspection was due.
Made the decision to have them R&R switch, flush out the 7 year old fluid, perform the ABS check and do the state inspection. $150 and 1.5 hrs later, rode away.

 

Same problem the other day with my 08 FLHR w/ABS brakes. Bought new switch and kit, bled brakes and back in business within hour. This thread has been very helpful since the factory Maintenance Manual says you have to re-flash system when bleeding brakes if you have ABS. You don't I've found out. Also checked with my indy before hand and they said no also. Good to know I have brake light when only using foot pedal. Could get rear ended easily by some bozo..... New part was $25 out the door at stealer.

 

Hey, just washed the brake fluid from hands. Read about using a brake switch from a 1971 VW. It works! Didn't have to bleed just do a quick switch, no pun intended. The head of the VW switch is a bit larger but the cost was worth it. Now I ride a HDVW. 😊

 

This is really ill advised advice. Hydraulic brake fittings are double flare type, and you never ever use a thread sealer on any flare type fittings. The threads are not the area that seals, its the flared seat. If yours is seeping the seat is damaged, and you need to replace one or both ends.

 

I have to replace my switch, I'm looking at which Loctite thraed sealer to use. The manual says Loctite pipe sealant with teflon (PST). But looking at Loctite there are diffent ones but none matches and on Harley's web they sell different types but not sure which I should purchase.

LOCTITE 567 High Temperature Thread Sealant with PTFE

(Known as Loctite 567 Thread Sealant )
For example?

2007 Softail Heritage Classic

 

Wrong bagman1...Harley rear brake switches are 1/8-27 Male National Pipe Thread (MNPT).

Also...a liquid or paste sealant (with PTFE/Teflon) should be used on dry threads. Wet threads (which is what you will have after the switch removal) should use "Teflon tape", taking care to not allow the tape to overlap and cover the hole in the switch. 2-3 wraps with tape is sufficient.

Tech Tip...Have new switch ready to install and close at hand. Immediately cover the switch receptacle with finger of free hand when removing old switch. Quickly remove finger and replace with new switch. Screw new switch in until snug (by hand). Tie-down brake pedal and slowly back-out new switch until you see/hear fluid-with-air-bubbles coming out around switch threads. Stop and hold there until no air bubbles are seen and a steady drip of fluid is present. Tighten switch with wrenches-one on the switch and one on the switch receptacle to prevent bending/twisting the mount tab. Remove brake reservoir cap and top off fluid. Release brake pedal. Replace reservoir cap. 25+ years as a professional tech and never had to bleed system (after switch replacement) using this procedure. Hope this helps someone.

 

Yeah thanks. I assumed the fitting was a double flare, to which you dont use a sealant, but you would for NPT threads.

 

motosman1: I will try it. Thanks