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Oil pan bolts torque

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  #1  
Old 07-19-2015 | 03:38 PM
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steelerdude1
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Default Oil pan bolts torque

I am leaking oil, and it appears to be coming from my oil pan. The manual state 107-132 in pounds, but I have read that HD increased it to 136-156 in pounds due to this happening.

I just checked and all of mine are loose. Hopefully this fixes me, but not sure where to torque them to. Right now I set it at 136.

There is 1 bolt I can't get a socket on, just has a small hole that I can fit a t- handled Allen in to Ge it hand tight. Any suggestions here?
 
  #2  
Old 07-19-2015 | 03:42 PM
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From: Honah Lee
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You are getting ready to screw up big time. Borrow someone to put a new o-ring on the plug while you stick a finger in the hole.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 12:11 PM.
  #3  
Old 07-19-2015 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
You are getting ready to screw up big time. Borrow someone to put a new o-ring on the plug while you stick a finger in the hole.
The leak is not coming from the drain plug, the first thing I did was put a new oring on there and torque to spec.(and the other 2 holes)

Why would tightening the oil pan bolts to spec screw any thing up?
 
  #4  
Old 07-19-2015 | 05:34 PM
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My bad for not reading close. Has the pan been off? Harley puts the bikes together pretty tight. From most covers I have taken off, they surely put some type sealer on the gaskets. Know when you pull off the timing chain over, it's a real bear to pop it. I took an old cover and drilled it for my sliding hammer and attach it to the timer hole. If you pan is leaking, I doubt it's from the torque. Sure it's not the transmission two cover bolts were the exhaust bracket attaches or from the oil filter change that was not cleaned up?

First thing I would do is clean it and check for leaks at night with a small led pencel flashlight and slip shaft ball joint dental mirror. If it's the pan, I would drop it.
 
  #5  
Old 07-19-2015 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
My bad for not reading close. Has the pan been off? Harley puts the bikes together pretty tight. From most covers I have taken off, they surely put some type sealer on the gaskets. Know when you pull off the timing chain over, it's a real bear to pop it. I took an old cover and drilled it for my sliding hammer and attach it to the timer hole. If you pan is leaking, I doubt it's from the torque. Sure it's not the transmission two cover bolts were the exhaust bracket attaches or from the oil filter change that was not cleaned up?

First thing I would do is clean it and check for leaks at night with a small led pencel flashlight and slip shaft ball joint dental mirror. If it's the pan, I would drop it.
I started leaking about 2-3 weeks ago. I got everything cleaned up after I changed my oil last week. It seem as if the oil is leaking from the right 2 corners of the oil pan. That's why I figured I would check the bolts. All but 2 of them were loose. All the ones on the right side were lose enough that I could have easily unscrewed them with my fingers (if I could haven gotten to them).

I bought my bike used 5 years ago, so I'm not certain if the pan was dropped before I bought it, but it hasn't been off since I owned it, and it had never leaked oil before this. I just wonder if 9 years and 60+K miles of vibrations could have loosened them.

If I have to drop the pan for a new gasket, I'm not certain how this is done (I didn't look at my manual yet) since there is that cross bar going across the frame.
 
  #6  
Old 07-19-2015 | 07:06 PM
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Take a look at the bolt you can't get to and see if a short section of allen wrench the correct size would fit between the bolt head and the cross member. It will require "sacrificing" one allen wrench to cut a length that will fit in the space and turn it with the open or closed end of a combination wrench the same size. If you can find one small enough a ratcheting combination wrench would be most convenient.
 
  #7  
Old 07-19-2015 | 07:16 PM
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Nine years and 60+K miles of vibrations could have loosened them and vibration may have finally caused the gasket to pull away. Someone could have put a jack under it. A real no-no. Even loose, guess the gasket was still stuck or oil would have been all over the place. Probably finally broke it. When you snugged it back up, it still has that small crack in it. My manual implies it can be pulled on bike. There is a baffle system with a spring that loads it. So not sure how much room you have. They specify HYLOMAR for sticking gasket on there. I would get both tires and the stand sitting on enough 2x12 about 2' long on blocks to get under it.
 
  #8  
Old 07-19-2015 | 08:02 PM
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If you need to replace the gasket, you just have to pull the rear tire and the swing arm axle. Then jack it up and slide it out. The spring can be a pain in the ***, but it's still not too bad of a job.
 
  #9  
Old 07-19-2015 | 08:18 PM
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you don't have to pull the swing arm axle just pull the rear axle and slide the tire back as far as you can ant the pan will come down I just did because I needed a new pan on account of a striped drain plug hole
 
  #10  
Old 07-19-2015 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by leon anthony
you don't have to pull the swing arm axle just pull the rear axle and slide the tire back as far as you can ant the pan will come down I just did because I needed a new pan on account of a striped drain plug hole
Good tip. When I did my 2002 RK, I couldn't get the oil pan to slide out because of the spring inside. I had to remove the swing arm axle and jack up the rear of the trains to get enough clearance. Either way, not a bad job. If you don't have to pull the swing arm, even easier.
 



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