Oil level check
#31
07-19-2015 | 06:05 PM
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,570
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From: Southeast NC
Have you ever asked someone how to do something then after doing it you found out that person was wrong? The best way to avoid that in this case is to buy a manual. If you plan to do all future maintenance and repairs I'd advise you get the Service manual, Electrical Diagnostic Manual and Parts catalog. Around $130 for all three at Kutters Online store.
Here's a few pages from the service manual to show what you'd get: Notice the asterisk near oil capacity, 4 qts it states add 3 Qts run until warm and add as needed.
Good Luck
#32
07-19-2015 | 06:51 PM
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 597
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From: ohio
They (the dealerships) also use the wrong size o-ring on those plugs.
Go one size smaller on the o-ring (it should fit snugly in the groove), no thread dope and your troubles will be gone forever. Buna o-rings work great - no need for viton but it's your bike, your money.
I only need to change out those o-rings maybe once every fourth or fifth oil change.
Go one size smaller on the o-ring (it should fit snugly in the groove), no thread dope and your troubles will be gone forever. Buna o-rings work great - no need for viton but it's your bike, your money.
I only need to change out those o-rings maybe once every fourth or fifth oil change.
#33
07-19-2015 | 07:02 PM
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: ohio
Still a bit confused about this hot/cold check nonsense. After changing the oil and putting 3 quarts in, have taken a few rides, let the bike idle for a minute or two afterwards, and checked the level on the jiffy stand. Oil level was about 3/4 high on the etch marks, confusing part-let the bike sit all night and do a cold check, oil level still about the same.
#34
07-20-2015 | 07:03 PM
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Northern Colorado
Still a bit confused about this hot/cold check nonsense. After changing the oil and putting 3 quarts in, have taken a few rides, let the bike idle for a minute or two afterwards, and checked the level on the jiffy stand. Oil level was about 3/4 high on the etch marks, confusing part-let the bike sit all night and do a cold check, oil level still about the same.
#35
07-21-2015 | 12:45 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,565
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From: anacoco, la
Still a bit confused about this hot/cold check nonsense. After changing the oil and putting 3 quarts in, have taken a few rides, let the bike idle for a minute or two afterwards, and checked the level on the jiffy stand. Oil level was about 3/4 high on the etch marks, confusing part-let the bike sit all night and do a cold check, oil level still about the same.
you then checked your oil after it was cold. yep, there's oil in there. i'm ready to ride......
#37
07-21-2015 | 05:52 AM
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 597
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From: ohio
Are you using synthetic? I think I remember somebody on here saying something about how synthetic oil doesn't expand and contract like conventional, therefore there's not much difference between hot and cold check. I don't know if that's true or not, but I've noticed the same thing.
#38
07-21-2015 | 03:41 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,328
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From: Pacific Northwest
Yup, amsoil full synthetic. Guess I will forget about the cold check as long as the hot check is within range. Bike runs fine and no sign of oil dripping from the air cleaner. What u posted makes sense bc my oil level doesn't change much between dead cold or hot, maybe a few etch marks but not much
There is no difference in expansion between the two types (syn/dino) of oils.
It also used to be said that synthetics were far too slick and caused ball and roller bearings to slide.
All bunk.
The cold check before a ride is the most important, don't just blow it off. Both of your checks were within range so you're good to go either way.
Remember, your motor uses a dry sump oil system so having the oil level right up to snuff isn't all that important.
Just keep it in range and ride the thing.
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