Hello.

2012 Road Glide Ultra.
I have the yellow engine light and the red battery light on my dash.
Test volts and battery and it is 12.4 at rest, fine.
Test when running and it is 11 volts.
Charging system is not charging battery.
3 phase charging system.
Had original Stator replaced under warrenty so I was on stator #2 now my charging system is failing again. Going onto 3rd Stator?

I wish to confirm if its the stator or the regulator.

Did Stator check that some internet test info says its good.
Pulled plug off of regulator that comes from stator, probed the 3 wires and got .03 (or .3) ohms on each lead. Good Results!!
Then checked each lead to ground and had open curcuit on each lead.
Good Results.
Some internet test says thats all you need to do to confirm the stator is good and that it must be the regulator.
Some tests say I need to get a charge out of the stator of about 15 volts when it is running.
I do not get 15 volts, what ever reading it was did not change.
So.....if you do not get a voltage reading go up and be around 15 volts directly from stator is stator bad (again)

Thoughts?

Is there a code in these bikes that says its the stator or regulator?

Does Cycle Electric make best aftermarket Stator, I sure aint getting a Harley part!!!

Thanks Guys.

 

No warranty on stator #2? Sorry no help but something seems odd

 

Here are some generic testing procedures that should help in your diagnosis.

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ∞
AC output 2 Ground ∞

 

You should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm. I replaced the OEM stuff with both a Cycle Electric stator and voltage regulator. I went with the high mount voltage regulator that mounts above the oil cooler. Less heat. I'm also replacing the OEM battery cables with a set from Terry's components.

 

During the 2012 model year HD ended up with a bad batch of regulators, and for awhile you couldn't get a new one. You could ride the bike with no issue, park it for a period then come back and, no charge. This happened as the residual heat from the engine heated the regulator and it shut down. Do you know if you have an original or a new one, they have a different part number. If it was changed under warranty your dealer should have a history. By your test results there is nothing wrong with your stator. That only leaves the regulator and the wire back to the fuse block.