The $800 price is WAY high IMO...sounds like either he saw a newbie he could take for easy cash, or he just didn't feel like doing it so he quoted ridiculously high to get you out the door

 

OP decided against buying the 99 due to the multitude of issues those bikes have. Probably a wise choice considering what mkguitar brought to light about that model year.

 

OP, just in case your tensioner question wasn't answered, twin cams up to 07 used a spring loaded cam chain tensioner. After that, the moco used a different cam plate that fed hydraulic pressure to the tensioners and upgraded the oil pump that raised pump pressure significantly. In a spring loaded tensioner there is constant spring pressure on it, with the later cam plate it's only under pressure when the pump is spinning. The cam plate is a bolt in, but requires a conversion cam. These cams have different o.d.'s on the inboard and outboard sides (3/4 and 1" respectively). I did this mod myself, using an Andrews 21N cam and a used cam plate from ebay and like it a lot.

 

Thanks just plain john, that's very helpful. I knew they had changed to hydraulics at some point but didn't know when. My problem is my budget! Can't afford anything newer than maybe a 2002. I've found two Road Kings, a 2000 with 58K miles and a 2001 with 38K. Both owners claim they have never been touched by a wrench... Which tells me they may be ready to implode any second. If I were to opt for one of these bikes, what would be a good estimate of getting the tensioner shoes and cam bearings done? I'm reasonably adept mechanically, is this a possible DIY job? Thanks again for all your help.

 

I did my own having never done it before. Look it up on YouTube for an idea of what's involved. I'm cheap too, and saved the cost of adjustable pushrods buy reusing my stock rods, but it's more labor to pull the rocker arms. Plan on replacing the cam bearings, and I'll loan you the tools to do that with.

 

I'd be worried about getting the cam timing wrong. Is there a FOOLproof way to avoid that? Thanks for the offer of the tools. Should I decide to do this I will definitely use them.

 

The biggest problem is at that price you will have to work on it no matter what. All of the bikes you say you can afford will need a tensioner check at least , and probably will not be in the best shape unless you stay very persistent, and wait a long while.
I would be looking at 2001-2005 Touring bikes, but you still should either have paper work stating that the tensioners were inspected/changed, or that they will do it at their cost, IMO.

 

1.) you need to understand that the cam drive is synced to the crank.

timing a V twin is same as timing a V8 or any other motor- it you understand how it works, then you won;t have a problem.

so open cam chest and rotate until the front cylinder is at TDC- on the compression stroke...that is BOTH valves closed.

at that point the timing marks on the cams should line up...and on the inside the crank will be lining up with the crank sensor


it is common with harleys to cut the pushrods with a bolt cutter and replace with adjustable pushrods- that allows the top end of the motor to stay intact...also the intake, gas tank etc etc.

a set of pushrods isn;t costly and greatly speeds up the job ( so all you have to do is remove the exhaust header and open the cam chest.)

you'll need cams
cam bearings
which ever cam drive system you decide to use
lifters
adj. pushrods
gasket set



there are always concerns with riders not setting the new push rods to the new lifters if they are new to motors.


It's not hard, and it is pretty much fool proof as long as you understand how the parts work with each other

Mike

 

Mike,
Some questions on your parts list. Why a new cam? Is it just a good time to change it or is there another reason? Cam drive system: I assume you mean chain or gear? Is one easier than the other? More or less expensive?
Costs: Gear drive and Cam kit $800
Tappets $100
Pushrods $150
Gasket set $35

Am I in the ballpark on parts costs? What if I don't go with the gear drive cam and stick with the chain, will I just need to replace the tensioners?

You've been a tremendous help. Its looking like I'll end up with a 99-02 TC 88 bike, so I better get familiar with this stuff.

 

I am not an authority...just a hobbiest.

I have alot of machines.

why new cams?

new parts to new parts.

the difficulty and the real 'cost' is time and effort in doing the job.

the cost of hard parts is a smaller percentage.

do it once and right then forget about it


gear drive- awesome for performance motors, vtwins and v8's...precise...BUT there is a price paid in friction..and the cost of teh gear drive.

i wouldn;t bother for a normal street bike.


this is all academic as you are shopping- one thing to be aware of is that the stock early TC heads are crap ( and at the time the reviewers slammed HD for this.)..while also offering $600 screamin eagle heads...which were essentially the same as the evo heads.

common if the heads come off is a 95" conversion- quick and easy.

kind of lay out all the parts of the motor in your head and consider what you would like to do- and how best to control costs


my perspective is screwy- I think that the TC's pre 2007 are not worth having...I stayed on my 1995 to 2010 when I bought my 09.

my deciding factors were 6 gal tank, new frame, brembos and abs, 6 speed and the 96" motor ( stroked 88")....but most of all they finally figured out the EFI and added o2 sensors.

I still have a very very fast evo and a very slow panhead.


for detailed motor questions there are riders here much more skilled than I

and lots of threads

Mike