10" la chopper twin peaks bars
#1
06-09-2015 | 09:54 AM
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From: Kansas City
10" la chopper twin peaks bars
Ok going to install my bars in a few day anything I need to know before jumping into it I should be able to use all my stock stuff TBW clutch brake line wires all the good stuff heard u just have to reroute some of it if u have any other advice I will take it lol thanks
#4
06-09-2015 | 12:56 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: West Bend, WI
Just did it on my '12 FLHTC. It's the best thing I have done to my bike.
Make sure you plot out the positions/colors of the wires before you pull them out of the connectors.
I used weed trimmer line to pull the wiring. First I used a nut and dental floss to pull the line through - then secured to the wiring harness with electrical tape. I was able to pull the left hand control wire bundle through with the existing jacket. On the right hand controls, I cut off the stock jacket and wrapped in electrical tape. For the TBW harness, I cut off the green plug and re-soldered and shrink-tubed. I pulled the hand controls through first, then the TBW wires. Used copious amounts of electrician's lube. You might want to think about enlarging the bottom opening on the bars a bit - it does get tight with all three harnesses. I did use some larger shrink tubing over the electrical tape on the right hand control and TBW harnesses for some extra protection.
The hand control and TBW harnesses have plenty of slack as is for 10" Twin Peaks. The connectors are originally mounted on the fairing supports. Don't remount the hand control connectors when all finished and that will give you the slack that is needed. The TBW harness has enough slack to remount if you like. Do make sure you zip tie everything, though.
The clutch cable can get tight when bars are turned to the right. Make sure you snip the zip tie on the right down tube and pull the cable over to the left down tube and zip tie there. That and a little re-routing in the fairing should give you enough slack. I do have a +4 cable waiting in the wings if I decide to have some extra slack.
Good luck!
Make sure you plot out the positions/colors of the wires before you pull them out of the connectors.
I used weed trimmer line to pull the wiring. First I used a nut and dental floss to pull the line through - then secured to the wiring harness with electrical tape. I was able to pull the left hand control wire bundle through with the existing jacket. On the right hand controls, I cut off the stock jacket and wrapped in electrical tape. For the TBW harness, I cut off the green plug and re-soldered and shrink-tubed. I pulled the hand controls through first, then the TBW wires. Used copious amounts of electrician's lube. You might want to think about enlarging the bottom opening on the bars a bit - it does get tight with all three harnesses. I did use some larger shrink tubing over the electrical tape on the right hand control and TBW harnesses for some extra protection.
The hand control and TBW harnesses have plenty of slack as is for 10" Twin Peaks. The connectors are originally mounted on the fairing supports. Don't remount the hand control connectors when all finished and that will give you the slack that is needed. The TBW harness has enough slack to remount if you like. Do make sure you zip tie everything, though.
The clutch cable can get tight when bars are turned to the right. Make sure you snip the zip tie on the right down tube and pull the cable over to the left down tube and zip tie there. That and a little re-routing in the fairing should give you enough slack. I do have a +4 cable waiting in the wings if I decide to have some extra slack.
Good luck!
#5
06-09-2015 | 01:45 PM
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 117
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From: Milton, PA
Just did it on my '12 FLHTC. It's the best thing I have done to my bike.
Make sure you plot out the positions/colors of the wires before you pull them out of the connectors.
I used weed trimmer line to pull the wiring. First I used a nut and dental floss to pull the line through - then secured to the wiring harness with electrical tape. I was able to pull the left hand control wire bundle through with the existing jacket. On the right hand controls, I cut off the stock jacket and wrapped in electrical tape. For the TBW harness, I cut off the green plug and re-soldered and shrink-tubed. I pulled the hand controls through first, then the TBW wires. Used copious amounts of electrician's lube. You might want to think about enlarging the bottom opening on the bars a bit - it does get tight with all three harnesses. I did use some larger shrink tubing over the electrical tape on the right hand control and TBW harnesses for some extra protection.
The hand control and TBW harnesses have plenty of slack as is for 10" Twin Peaks. The connectors are originally mounted on the fairing supports. Don't remount the hand control connectors when all finished and that will give you the slack that is needed. The TBW harness has enough slack to remount if you like. Do make sure you zip tie everything, though.
The clutch cable can get tight when bars are turned to the right. Make sure you snip the zip tie on the right down tube and pull the cable over to the left down tube and zip tie there. That and a little re-routing in the fairing should give you enough slack. I do have a +4 cable waiting in the wings if I decide to have some extra slack.
Good luck!
Make sure you plot out the positions/colors of the wires before you pull them out of the connectors.
I used weed trimmer line to pull the wiring. First I used a nut and dental floss to pull the line through - then secured to the wiring harness with electrical tape. I was able to pull the left hand control wire bundle through with the existing jacket. On the right hand controls, I cut off the stock jacket and wrapped in electrical tape. For the TBW harness, I cut off the green plug and re-soldered and shrink-tubed. I pulled the hand controls through first, then the TBW wires. Used copious amounts of electrician's lube. You might want to think about enlarging the bottom opening on the bars a bit - it does get tight with all three harnesses. I did use some larger shrink tubing over the electrical tape on the right hand control and TBW harnesses for some extra protection.
The hand control and TBW harnesses have plenty of slack as is for 10" Twin Peaks. The connectors are originally mounted on the fairing supports. Don't remount the hand control connectors when all finished and that will give you the slack that is needed. The TBW harness has enough slack to remount if you like. Do make sure you zip tie everything, though.
The clutch cable can get tight when bars are turned to the right. Make sure you snip the zip tie on the right down tube and pull the cable over to the left down tube and zip tie there. That and a little re-routing in the fairing should give you enough slack. I do have a +4 cable waiting in the wings if I decide to have some extra slack.
Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed instructions. Do you know if the wiring for heated grips will fit?
#6
06-09-2015 | 02:41 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 10
From: West Bend, WI
I snipped mine on the throttle assembly. I would guess that you could snip up from the plug, solder extensions to run through the bars, then re-solder the plug after pulling for connection inside the fairing. The two wires would make it tighter on the pull, but I would think it would work.
#7
06-09-2015 | 02:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Lake, Ms
2010 Limited with some stuff
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#10
06-10-2015 | 09:58 PM
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From: Kansas City