Another possible voltage regulator gone bad
#1
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: sand mountain Alabama
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Another possible voltage regulator gone bad
Posted this in the CVO section but not much to offer.
So I'm trying it here.
Running around 30 moh. Dash lights go out, radio goes out, voltage gauge is pegged. Start to parts store for a fuse then everything starts working. Head home, does it again. Engine light comes on both times for a split second and goes out.
Codes, 10 of them, all of which is a high voltage problem. One says over 16 volt high voltage.
I'm thinking I got me another voltage regulator going out.
Bike runs great.
Anyone have this experience?
Was it the vr
I had the recall done early on with a new voltage regulator. Had to wait for them to send one. Mine went out before they sent the replacements.
So I'm trying it here.
Running around 30 moh. Dash lights go out, radio goes out, voltage gauge is pegged. Start to parts store for a fuse then everything starts working. Head home, does it again. Engine light comes on both times for a split second and goes out.
Codes, 10 of them, all of which is a high voltage problem. One says over 16 volt high voltage.
I'm thinking I got me another voltage regulator going out.
Bike runs great.
Anyone have this experience?
Was it the vr
I had the recall done early on with a new voltage regulator. Had to wait for them to send one. Mine went out before they sent the replacements.
#2
indicates a VR
the VR converts the AC power from the stator to DC... via a diode bridge.
it also limits or regulates the voltage to below about 14.8 Volts DC
( the excess voltage is shed as heat---chrome regulator covers should be thrown into your neighbor's pool )
the tech board/electrical has diagnostics. which you should do to confirm as this could be something else and only a methodical approach will truly confirm your observations.
otherwise you can start swapping parts...but parts swapping and fixing are not always the same thing...and the one is way more expensive
mike
the VR converts the AC power from the stator to DC... via a diode bridge.
it also limits or regulates the voltage to below about 14.8 Volts DC
( the excess voltage is shed as heat---chrome regulator covers should be thrown into your neighbor's pool )
the tech board/electrical has diagnostics. which you should do to confirm as this could be something else and only a methodical approach will truly confirm your observations.
otherwise you can start swapping parts...but parts swapping and fixing are not always the same thing...and the one is way more expensive
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 04-20-2015 at 10:05 PM.
#4
Yep, similar not too long ago, out of the blue it spiked up to 16V and pegged the volt gauge. Wasted money on a new VR and cooked it in like seconds, because I was too lazy to break out the multimeter. Do the book checks on the stator AC output and ground. If you find that you need a stator, forget the OEM replacement, go with Cycle Electric's complete kit. New stator, rotor, and VR, its awesome actually having 14V at idle.
#5
#6
Only about a month, but it has a 2 yr warranty. 06 OEM system makes no power at idle, strictly running off batt. The new CE system holds 14.1 from idle on up, I was impressed.
#7
Does the voltage go back to normal when you apply the clutch? If yes your symptoms match my early symptoms of a voltage regulator failure.
The original voltage regulator on my bike was replaced as part of the recall before it left the showroom floor, 2012 model year. The replacement failed around 20,000 miles. I'll be approaching the second 20,000 miles by the time winter rolls around, fingers crossed.
The original voltage regulator on my bike was replaced as part of the recall before it left the showroom floor, 2012 model year. The replacement failed around 20,000 miles. I'll be approaching the second 20,000 miles by the time winter rolls around, fingers crossed.
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#8
#10
Excessive voltage may be indicating a grounding stator. Check your stator leads for breaks in the insulation that would allow the bare wire to contact the frame. If nothing inside, you may have to pull the primary off and check for metal particules that have built up on the stator and are grounding it out.
This picture is my stator after metal fragments from my clutch bowl bearing accumulated at the top of the stator. This is looking at the back side of the stator and the metal was building up and touching the side of the crank case. The metal broke through the varnish coating and created the electrical short. The splines of the clutch bowl bearing were crumbling and being carried by the primary fluid.
This picture is my stator after metal fragments from my clutch bowl bearing accumulated at the top of the stator. This is looking at the back side of the stator and the metal was building up and touching the side of the crank case. The metal broke through the varnish coating and created the electrical short. The splines of the clutch bowl bearing were crumbling and being carried by the primary fluid.
Last edited by EasternSP; 04-21-2015 at 04:45 AM.