FLHTK won't fire up!
#1
FLHTK won't fire up!
OK guys,this is the deal. FLHTK won't "fire-up".
I have a 2011 FLHTK which I imported to Australia,low miles,top presentation,am very happy and proud.
Due to some health issues,I haven't ridden it much for about 12 months,but I have run the motor in the garage for short periods,,again,not for some months. Health has improved,so now wanting to get back in the saddle,so yesterday,I fired up my old faithful FXDC,a charm. Not so with the FLHTK.Engine cranked over,but would not "fire".Oils OK,Battery meter said 12.8v (been on Batt.Tender),Petrol could be old (98 Premium),,Fuses appear OK. FOB batteries were dead,so replaced them,Alarm seems to make the correct chirps and indicator flashes.Jiffy Stand was up.It just wouldn't come to life,hasn't happened before! All comments/suggestions appreciated.I am not into it mechanically,so am about to have it shipped to the Dealer.//Fuel/Pump/Injectors/Security code?/Battery?,,what do you think??
I have a 2011 FLHTK which I imported to Australia,low miles,top presentation,am very happy and proud.
Due to some health issues,I haven't ridden it much for about 12 months,but I have run the motor in the garage for short periods,,again,not for some months. Health has improved,so now wanting to get back in the saddle,so yesterday,I fired up my old faithful FXDC,a charm. Not so with the FLHTK.Engine cranked over,but would not "fire".Oils OK,Battery meter said 12.8v (been on Batt.Tender),Petrol could be old (98 Premium),,Fuses appear OK. FOB batteries were dead,so replaced them,Alarm seems to make the correct chirps and indicator flashes.Jiffy Stand was up.It just wouldn't come to life,hasn't happened before! All comments/suggestions appreciated.I am not into it mechanically,so am about to have it shipped to the Dealer.//Fuel/Pump/Injectors/Security code?/Battery?,,what do you think??
#2
We can surmise that the alarm is not a factor, nor is the jiffy/clutch/neutral which some models may require- as it is cranking over.
do you hear the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition switch?
it should run to reach pressure- then stop
if not, there is the first place to look ( and we are sure there is petrol in the tank?).
oil level is correct?
battery...what is the voltmeter read while it is cranking?
a battery tender is better than nothing....but not a guaranty that the battery hasn;t failed.
is it turning over briskly?
with the 103 and compression releases, it should turn over a couple of times to build momentum before the CR's close and fuel and spark are added.
don;t want to pile on while you have this issue- but "just starting up" an otherwise stored bike doesn;t do the machine any favours. condensation forms in the cases and exhaust and don't boil out.
Mike
do you hear the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition switch?
it should run to reach pressure- then stop
if not, there is the first place to look ( and we are sure there is petrol in the tank?).
oil level is correct?
battery...what is the voltmeter read while it is cranking?
a battery tender is better than nothing....but not a guaranty that the battery hasn;t failed.
is it turning over briskly?
with the 103 and compression releases, it should turn over a couple of times to build momentum before the CR's close and fuel and spark are added.
don;t want to pile on while you have this issue- but "just starting up" an otherwise stored bike doesn;t do the machine any favours. condensation forms in the cases and exhaust and don't boil out.
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 02-26-2015 at 10:40 PM.
#3
Mike ,thanks,
accept your point about "starting-up", but the condition I was in,to hear that rumble was good for me,and there were not many "hop on board" options,I do understand your point.
The BOSS was looking at a plug in Meter in the Top Box which she said read 9.8v when cranking,looks like the Battery?
accept your point about "starting-up", but the condition I was in,to hear that rumble was good for me,and there were not many "hop on board" options,I do understand your point.
The BOSS was looking at a plug in Meter in the Top Box which she said read 9.8v when cranking,looks like the Battery?
#5
Give it a quick shot of ether
If it fires you know it's fuel related and go from there. Make sure to look in fuel tank to verify you actually do have fuel too. You could even squirt some fuel directly into the throttle body with a straw or something to see if it fires.
Last edited by vanman59; 02-27-2015 at 02:50 PM. Reason: added something
#6
#7
she is awesome-
nothing worse than getting lip about "taking too long" when bleeding the brakes & and "what do you mean hold the pedal down".
But that's my problem.
It does look like low voltage is your problem.
I would suggest pulling the battery out and getting it on a charger at a 3 to 5 amp rate overnight.
then have the battery load tested.
Here in the US, we have auto parts chain stores which will do this at no cost.
when you remove a battery, disconnect Neg first- that will remove risk of sparks...on install, Neg last
by pulling the battery...when it goes back in, your are renewing the connection which is good.
word of warning...I know you want to... but using another vehicle to "jump" start the bike will than have your charging system over working trying to charge the battery and keep the bike running.
If you battery is in really poor condition, this can stress and cause the charging system to fail which is about 6 or 8 times the cost of a battery.
mike
nothing worse than getting lip about "taking too long" when bleeding the brakes & and "what do you mean hold the pedal down".
But that's my problem.
It does look like low voltage is your problem.
I would suggest pulling the battery out and getting it on a charger at a 3 to 5 amp rate overnight.
then have the battery load tested.
Here in the US, we have auto parts chain stores which will do this at no cost.
when you remove a battery, disconnect Neg first- that will remove risk of sparks...on install, Neg last
by pulling the battery...when it goes back in, your are renewing the connection which is good.
word of warning...I know you want to... but using another vehicle to "jump" start the bike will than have your charging system over working trying to charge the battery and keep the bike running.
If you battery is in really poor condition, this can stress and cause the charging system to fail which is about 6 or 8 times the cost of a battery.
mike
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#8
And I was going to suggest he try to push start it. Just kidding! That there is some very good advice and direction. These bikes need a fully charged battery in good condition to start. And, as said, DO NOT allow the bike to run for any length of time on a bad battery or you will be several hundred dollars poorer to replace the stator and regulator. (bikes charging system)
#9
Was fuel stabilizer added when it was parked? How much gas in the tank and how humid is it where you live? Smell the fuel. If it still smells like gasoline, you should be in good shape. If it smells like a chemical experiment that has gone bad, siphon and refill. If you had a partial tank of fuel for all this time, there may be a layer of water on the bottom of the tank due to condensation. If the gas is marginal or outright sour your injectors may be gummed up also. I was under the impression that 9.6 volts while cranking was the bottom tolerance for dependable starts, but with 9.8 and a 4 year old battery replacement is a good idea anyway.
If it fires after squirting a little fuel into the intake, as suggested above, the problem is bad fuel or sticky injectors. That would at least help in trouble shooting. One final "grasp at a straw", occasionally a fail to fire is cured by disconnecting the fuel line quick disconnect on the bottom of the tank and then reconnecting it. Seems to restart fuel flow if something in that connection is stuck.
If it fires after squirting a little fuel into the intake, as suggested above, the problem is bad fuel or sticky injectors. That would at least help in trouble shooting. One final "grasp at a straw", occasionally a fail to fire is cured by disconnecting the fuel line quick disconnect on the bottom of the tank and then reconnecting it. Seems to restart fuel flow if something in that connection is stuck.
#10