+1

When I put the CVO bags & rear fender on my '11 FLHX I felt I needed to put duals back on the bike because of the cutouts on the bags.
I ended up cutting the stock head pipe open and removing the cat. Welded back up and retained the stock mufflers. Sounded good with the motor mods I had.

 

A proper tune will do more than pipes and especially A/C on '14 up tourers. Nothing is as quite as stock! Fatshots can be close but little performance improvement with closed caps. I think a proper X pipe header (Fuelmoto/Fullsac/V&H) would be a bigger performance gain than slip-ons but the sound will go up. Contrary to popular belief, gutting the cat from the stock header is actually very little performance gain because ya still have the same poorly designed header.

 

Aerocharger and put a baffle in it.

 

I suggest doing the catless headers first to see if you want more volume. If not loud enough change mufflers. I don't think you will need new mufflers though. I like em rather toned down my self and find this approach works good for me.
Only thing is the stock mufflers has a restriction on the left mufflers as where the right does not. Just crank the engine and put your hand over the end of the muffler and you can feel the difference between the 2. If I did go with new mufflers I would consider the D&D mufflers.

 

I have to question that statement


the "open end cap" is equal to 10 disks in terms of flow.

easy to add disks

unlike other systems, the supertrapp disk system mufflers can be tuned to the riders desires and for the motor characteristics- and altered if the motor is built.
the use of an end cap...open or closed is less a performance choice than a noise choice

OP, here's an exhaust comparo:

http://www.supertrapp.com/images/pdfs/Shootout.pdf

the supertrapps in this are not the same disk series I use- but a few popular brands are tested on a no cat 96" motor- HP, Torque and dB numbers are charted.




Mike

 

I agree with removing the CAT from the headpipe. On my 11 RGC I first started by changing out the stock headpipe with the FM Jackpot headpipe and keeping the stock slip-ons. This was a good start,but as mentioned above the stock left slip-on is more restrictive than the right....so I installed a set of 4" Klockwerks S/S slip-ons which are nice and quiet at cruising speed. This is a great combo of performance and sound level

 

I wanted to quiet down my bike after running a Thunderheader on a 80" Evo and chose the Supertrapp tunable slip-ons. I lost a little torque but the reduction in sound was well worth it. The dyno numbers for the TH was at 92 Tq and 87 Hp, the Supertrapp was dialed in at 87 Tq and 87 Hp and I still get into the mid 40's MPG. I would not hesitate to buy them again.

 

On my 14 Limited i did the fullsac head pipe TTS tuner and fullsac 2" baffles. Ran good but to quite for my liking. Went to 2 1/4 baffles sounded better. had it dynoed and got 92 hp and 107 torque. if you went 2" baffles probably get a little more torque yet.

 

I think I'm going to start here....

 

In June 2014 I bought my 2014 Road King. Had the dealer install a Fulsac CX header, Kuryakyn mellow crusher pipes, SEPST, and uploaded a canned map. The header is to reduce the heat issue and performance; the pipes are deep and low, really sound good, and are a little louder than stock pipes. The SEPST and map is to enrich the F/A ratio to drive down the heat generation and increase performance.