I've done a search of the forum and am unable to find a solution...

My 2010 Street Glide with about 6,000 miles was started this weekend, it ran for about 20 seconds and then cut off like the ignition was turned off. It started and ran fine with no sputtering or hiccups during the 20 second run. Since then it will crank, but won't start. It has spark on both plugs, no fuses blown and it will run when carb cleaner is sprayed into the intake and then quit after its burned off. Before I sprayed the carb cleaner I pulled the plugs after several attemps of starting and found the front plug to be damp, but not wet with fuel and the rear plug seemed dry. Yes, the kill switch is switched to on and there is plenty of gas in the tank. Battery is connected to a tender.

Back story on the bike....

I recently had the gas tank and other sheet metal parts replaced after the bike and I did about a 30 foot left side slide down the road. When the new tank was installed all the internals were swapped over from the old tank. Since getting the bike back from the tank swap I've run the fuel down to reserve level and filled it back up with non-ethanol gas. I rode about 10-20 miles with no issues since last fill up and that's how she sits now.

So, I feel like I've got it narrowed down to a fuel delivery problem. Just don't know if it's an electrical or mechanical issue. I would next like to see if fuel is making it out of the tank to the injectors, but don't know how to do that without the pressure test t-connector. Trying to explore all options before pulling the fuel pump and filter out of the tank. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

 

When you flip the ignition on, does the bike make the normal 2-3sec. "hum" to build fuel pressure??? If not, that could be a good place to start with diagnosing.

 

Forgot to mention that. Yes, I can hear the normal hum when switched on.

 

i would go back over all the connections with fuel. if thats what you messed with then thats where i'd start. yeah its a pain and kinda messy but if you do everything else then still have to do the fuel system then your really not saving any time or effort. one easy thing to check is fuses and relays. i had my tank off and had a problem with the quick disconnect not seating fully. didnt leak just not on good enough i guess. pulled it off and reconnected it and it ran fine.

 

Thank you, escalade. Fuses are good, will check relays tomorrow. I'm not looking forward to it, but will probably get into the guts of tank to check connections in a couple days if nothing else has worked. I've disconnected and reconnected the quick disconnect and it seems to seat back ok.

 

I know this is obvious, but I was told this when I had issues (yes I already knew it). Check & check again.
Air - fuel - spark - bike runs. You stated starter fluid makes it run. Obviously Fuel issue. Pressure, blockage, or delivery point at the TB/injectors.
Go through the steps A, B, C - Fuel pump (pressure), connections and hose (unobstructed), fuel getting injected to cylinders (electronics).

 

Here you go. This is basically what you need to go through. This isn't on a 103 but it's the same stuff.

By the way, the hose he pulls off should be spraying fuel when the pump primes.


If you think it's electrical you may want to consider a "noid light" but you can also typically backprobe the connector with a pointy-stabby test light to check for injector pulse.

 

Just checking...you did plug the fuel pump back in after putting the tank back on, right?

 

Unhook and reseat your fuel line fitting at the bottom of the tank. Retry starting.

If that does not work, remove the horn bolt, push the horn to one side and then remove the tiny torx screw and bracket that holds the fuel line feed to the injectors. It will simply pull out. Point the line into a cup or gas can and turn on the bike and see if fuel flows out while the fuel pump does it pressurizing gig.

If no fuel pumps, start looking inside the tank (or it can still be your fuel line disconnect).

If you have fuel pumping, you have an injector issue but both injectors at the same time? Probably not so either go ahead and wiggle the injectors out and check them (prob fine), or start looking at a ECM problem.

 

It's the wire connector that comes out the bottom if the tank console along with the overflow tubes. Reason I know...I've forgot it befor too.