There are kits available from both True-Track and Motorcycle Metal (possibly others) that provide bushings to fit the later swingarm, but use the early smaller diameter swingarm axle. IMHO don't even think of opening up the hole in the back of the trans! I used a T-T Trackula kit on my bike.

 

I opened up a 3/4 wheel with a drill press and didn't have any problems in over 50K miles, the hub is just a casting, did mine on a spoke wheel, but MOCO didn't cast a complete new nine spoke wheel for the later bikes, the wheel will be fine bored out. I tried to use a drill press on the caliper and didn't get it drilled straight enough so I just bought a 2002 up caliper, but there is enough material there it just needs to be machined out with a fixture holding it so you get a perfectly perpendicular hole, good luck it's a good upgrade. By the way if you happen to have the trans out that hole can be opened up for the larger swingarm axle, I did it on a 2000 and it's still working great with over 110K on it.

 

Yes I got the pivot shaft kit from J&P Cycles, undersized bushings allows use of the older 5/8 pivot shaft Thanks everybody, good info

 

I guess it depends on if the bike is on a center stand or on the road:


Wheels support bearings
bearings support axle
axle supports swing arm
swing arm/shocks support back of bike.

 

The 2000 and 2001 wheel will not accept the 1 inch center spacer. I took my wheels in for an chrome exchange and the guy charged me $50 extra because he would have to have the rear wheel machined for the 1" axle spacer (crush tube as some call it). Other wise the wheel only fit 2 years and he would have a hard time reselling it. Since I'm upgrading my rear to 2007 Swingarm and 1" rear axel he exchanged my wheels + $50 for 2002 - 2007 wheels

 

You need a boring bar to align a new machining with existing bearing housings. I don't think a dealer can do that for you.

 

So this might not be a good idea?



1" unibit

 

Try to find a reamer or a machine "stepped-drill" with a 0.75" guiding nose. With two cutting lips your tool will "walk" and produce a 3 lobe shape. Use lots of oil to avoid gripping and slow spindle speed.
Worst case scenario: with a grinder you can make a stepped drill 0.75-1.0" as long as you provide the cutting edges on both sides. This is rough but better than attempting to drill with a chamfer tool.

 

OMG don't use the step drill, you will be sorry!
Get the thing bored by a machine shop or better and safer still buy one that has the 1" hole in as I am sure they are beefed up, but don't quote me!
The reason bikers get the swing arm from a newer model is that they have suffered the cracking next to the spindle or for more rigidity.
I would do the same if mine was a problem but it now has a stabilizer bar fitted and I was wondering that if you keep it 3/4" spindle and make spacers up to fit the 1" gap in the swing arm.
Probably not a good move but it would have 1/16" wall thickness on the spacers.

 

I recently had a rear caliper honed out from 25mm to 1" by a competent shop. The hole needs to be reasonably accurate, but most essentially square to the end faces.

I have a later swingarm and wheel with 1" bearings on my 1990 bike, not because of a cracked original s/w but the get the greater stiffness and wheel control, as part of a general handling upgrade.