I'm 5'8", but I guess with my inseam I could flatfoot my 2011 Ultra but just barely. I wanted a little wiggle room so I put Pingel blocks on about 20k ago. I ride 2 up almost always and have hardly noticed a difference in the ride unless I neglect the rear shock pressure.
Pingel has been around for a long time and they make a quality product. I've even checked the mounting torques at oil change intervals just for ***** and giggles and nothing has changed.

https://www.2wheelpartssupply.com/pi...acket-kit.html

 

The Pingel looks just like every other lowering block, what makes it different from the others?

 

I have the same question. What makes them different? I put 100,000 miles on a set of these for $29.99 and never had a problem.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2012-HA...bccf75&vxp=mtr

 

LOL, I'm not sure how this became a Rally cry for Pingel. They are just one brand of lowering blocks that is a quality part. I simply mentioned Pingel because there is ALWAYS SOMEONE who wants to throw lowering block scare tactics into the mix. Lowering blocks are just one of MANY ways to lower the back of a motorcycle, and if a person chooses blocks, a quality block like Pingel is what I would suggest.

 

Since they've been doing it since 1967, I trust Pingel to use the best materials and machining techniques. I don't trust "Brand X" to make a very important component that's failure could cost me mine and my wife's lives.

Do you even know who constructed those cheap *** blocks?

http://www.pingelonline.com/content/...-machining.asp

 

guys,
after looking into lower kit options for my 13 flhx, I came across the LAchoppers drop blocks, and a note from them which stated WILL NOT WORK WITH COIL OVER SHOCKS.

The reason I bring this up, is I chose to remove the crap glide air shocks, and replace them with a set of adjustable 12" SE shocks, which are considered to be coil overs.

Now mind you, the SE's solved my bottoming out problem (yes bottoming out when loaded up with wife and weekend luggage) and the SE's ride sooo nice....but I still would like to be a little lower, which is why I'm still asking about lowering kits.

Do these Pingel kits work with coil over shocks?

 

Yea, I'm just looking to lower the rear about an inch and a quarter or so just for the looks. Nothing more, and would like to retain or maintain as much of the stock ride-ability as possible.

Some mods can be just for looks right!!

-Matt

 

I went both ways on my 09 FLHTC.


I had used lowering blocks on my 1995 FLHTC and they were "ok"- but for the most part I didn;t use them...I reinstalled for the guy who bought my bike.

I use a 13" ride height when touring...

for a couple of years I used the 12" 09+ version of the SG shocks in town and swapped to 13's when touring.

The 12's were ok, a little harsh...for me about 10 PSI worked ( just like the Patriots)

To experiment I got some lowering blocks from a forum member and used with the 13's...for what ever reason the ride quality was poorer than the 12's...I think that the way these blocks attached to the swingarm allows them to pivot when the shocks extend.

I pulled the blocks off the other day to go to 13's for a trip- I wont be putting them back on.

I sold the 12" air shocks- I'm gonna keep my eyes open for a set of 13" hand adjustables to try out next.

Mike

 

I had a set of LA Choppers 1" lowering blocks on my 04 Road King for 20K miles, or more. Forget exactly how many miles. In any case, never had a structural issue with them. They were well made.

What was problematic was, the shocks (Ohlins) were interfered with by the lowering blocks…so had to space the shocks out, top and bottom (to keep them straight up and down) away from the blocks. With the shocks spaced wider, had to space the bags (top and bottom mounts) out to clear the shocks. Like I said, PITA. But once it was done, it looked and worked well.

The purpose of this exercise was to retain the full travel and comfort of the 13" shocks, while retaining the 1" lowered stance of the bike (RK Custom). Like I said, it worked.

What you will find with the shorter shocks, e.g., 12", is a bit 'stiffer' ride. These shocks generally have less stroke (travel), so I think they make them a little stiffer, through valving and/or springs, so they won't bottom out. Whereas the longer shocks have a little more travel, and don't have to be quite as stiff since they have a little more 'headroom' before they'll bottom.

Alan

 

Alan, are you really saying that you bought beautiful expensive Ohlins shocks and then used lowering blocks on the poor things, when you could have bought short ones?!