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Cam and Crank sensor replacement

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  #1  
Old 01-19-2015, 02:35 PM
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Default Cam and Crank sensor replacement

2000 RK going through and replacing sensors and coil. Bike ran good then no power then good, no power. Kept breaking down every time I took it out.


I converted the MM efi to carb. Have started it and sounds good. Used All stock wiring harness and cv carb. Stock ignition. All the parts that would have came with it if it was a carb bike from Harley.
Thought while it was winter time and on a lift would also eliminate 3 more things that could have made it run off and on.
Crank , cam sensor and thought I would replace coil.


How do you get the female electrical connection apart to expose the 2 or 3 wires to pull through the sleeve.


I have a manual, but don't understand.

It is the 2 connectors that are on the end of the cam and crank sensor wires. How it comes apart






I don't like taking things to mechanics. want to figure things out myself...




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Last edited by straightleg; 01-19-2015 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 01-19-2015, 02:51 PM
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I bought the Daytona Twin Tech ignition module, you no longer need the Camshaft position sensor with this adjustable ignition module, I highly reccomend getting it.
It is easy to put in, plug and play, and allows you to adjust your timing plus has a adjustable rev limiter, it works great.
 
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Old 01-19-2015, 02:58 PM
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I still need to know how to get the ends loose on the crank position sensor. I can do both then switch ignitions if I want to down the road.






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Old 01-19-2015, 03:20 PM
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Mine just un plugged, it was under the bike, the sensor is in the cam cover.
 
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Old 01-19-2015, 03:24 PM
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If you have good performance then bad then good.. Make sure the motor ain't sumping.. The sensors you list typically will cause starting issues if going out but won't cause random power issues.. One sensor that can cause this issue is the Map Sensor.. They can randomly fail and heal.. When bad they set the manifold pressure to the equivalent of wide open throttle, which causes the ignition module to run the slowest timing curve. It will make the bike feel sluggish and can also effect the idle.
 
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:35 PM
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Let me reword it. When you buy these 2 sensors, they come with everything except the end that plugs in. You have to take the connector off the old wires to reuse with the new wires.
How do you take apart the connector?








SL
 
  #7  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:08 PM
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You are right. We shouldn't be telling you what is possibly wrong..

The process to disassemble the connectors is in appendix B of the service manual..

Add:

The description is pretty good.. Use a magnifying glass if having trouble identifying parts of the connector.. You may end up braking the housing the holds the pins in but they are not too expensive to replace..
 

Last edited by Max Headflow; 01-19-2015 at 08:15 PM. Reason: Add:
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bwoltz
You are right. We shouldn't be telling you what is possibly wrong..

The process to disassemble the connectors is in appendix B of the service manual..

Add:

The description is pretty good.. Use a magnifying glass if having trouble identifying parts of the connector.. You may end up braking the housing the holds the pins in but they are not too expensive to replace..





Thanks


SL
 
  #9  
Old 01-19-2015, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bwoltz
If you have good performance then bad then good.. Make sure the motor ain't sumping.. The sensors you list typically will cause starting issues if going out but won't cause random power issues.. One sensor that can cause this issue is the Map Sensor.. They can randomly fail and heal.. When bad they set the manifold pressure to the equivalent of wide open throttle, which causes the ignition module to run the slowest timing curve. It will make the bike feel sluggish and can also effect the idle.

Thanks replaced that just recently.




SL
 
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