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How many times is a primary chain adjustmenr needed

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  #21  
Old 11-18-2014, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sanman4ever
What kind of noise? Like a whining? If so that's the chain eating into the shoe.
Not a whine,just a lot of chain slop sound.I knew it was "snake oil",but it came w/a used primary set up w/1500 miles I needed and bought off ebay 8 years/33,000 miles ago..VERY SOON put a stock tensioner on it.Still running the stock tensioner.No big deal to check at oil changes.In fact,I've never had to adjust it unless when removing the inner primary to change sprockets 3 times,and replace a seal in tranny.RK had 12g when I bought it about a year and a half ago.Got 30g on it now and haven't had to adjust the one on it but do check it when changing oil.
 
  #22  
Old 11-18-2014, 08:58 PM
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I didn't have good luck with the Hayden. I have ~ 1/4" clearance without shims when new, instruction calls for 3/8". Apart from the noise made while chain was setting in, the shoe broke after 5500 miles. Went back to stock tensioner, will check every 5000 miles.
 
  #23  
Old 11-18-2014, 10:44 PM
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I ride my twin cam about 20k a year. I find that about once a year I pull primary cover off and check the chain. Usually it does not need attention. If it is a little slack I button it up and take it out on the road and launch the bike in first gear up to about 3000 rpm and then roll back the throttle and step on the rear brake. This procedure will tighten up a loose primary chain without tearing anything up and is super quick. If your primary chain is loose and you perform this procedure, it will be noticeably quieter. If the primary chain is too tight when I check it (which is rare) I just back it off to spec.
 
  #24  
Old 11-19-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by sanman4ever
How many miles on the bike?
I only have 19,000 miles.
However, I just got done changing the stator (oil leak) and I had to use a screwdriver to wedge up the chain so I could zip tie the adjuster before removing it.

This seemed a tad tight to me
 
  #25  
Old 11-19-2014, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by semiret
I only have 19,000 miles.
However, I just got done changing the stator (oil leak) and I had to use a screwdriver to wedge up the chain so I could zip tie the adjuster before removing it.

This seemed a tad tight to me
At 19K your chain is just about done stretching so in all likely hood going to the baker will require very little readjusting on your part if you decide to go that route.

Also I'd assume the motor was cold when you replaced the stator. If the chain seemed a tad tight when you replaced the stator think about how tight the chain gets when it heats up.

I did a lot of research. Spend the extra and get the baker.
 
  #26  
Old 11-19-2014, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by sanman4ever
At 19K your chain is just about done stretching so in all likely hood going to the baker will require very little readjusting on your part if you decide to go that route.

Also I'd assume the motor was cold when you replaced the stator. If the chain seemed a tad tight when you replaced the stator think about how tight the chain gets when it heats up.

I did a lot of research. Spend the extra and get the baker.
Or the SE tensioner maybe? It doesn't require taking off the compensator (not that that is hard) and it's like 125 at Kutter HD.

I have not heard any reviews on it yet so yeah, somebody buy it and review it for us! Looks legit.
 
  #27  
Old 11-19-2014, 08:15 PM
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On my other bike. I had to tighten the chain at about 2,500, than again at 9,000 then one last adjustment at about 22,000 after that not again I sold it at 36,000. Weld it and save your self the money.
 
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