Back in the day of bias ply tires.

The first few miles of driving on a cold winter morning was like having square wheels.

 

Back on topic... Instead of WD40, I Suggest washing and waxing a bike before storage.

 

Winterizing my bike:
Since i have a lift, i raise the bike so tires are not on garage floor.
Gas tank left full so tank does not rust, put in fuel stabilizer.
Put battery on trickle battery tender.
Cover bike with breathable cotton old bed sheets.
Waking the slleping giant, run it for awhile change the fluids ready to go....
Check bolts and nuts, check tire pressures.
Quick clean with dust mop....ready to go.

 

Yes, it has been a common practice for decades. On every brand motorcycle in existence. Pull your spark plugs, remove the air cleaner, hold the throttle wide open, hit the start button and spray WD40 down the intake till it sprays out the spark plug holes. It simply coats the inside of the motor with WD40. Years ago I did this religiously after adding STABIL to the tank. Mostly when I was living in Chicago and the bike sat for many months over the "snow" season. Now I am living in Virginia, I no longer do this, as at least one day every month, I ride the bike. Fat old grey beards swear by this storage "trick". I have no proof it does a thing, but I did it just the same. Expect a big POOF of smoke when you pull it out of storage, the first day of spring.

 

WD40 is Kerosene mostly.... another term - stove oil.
Have to look at the label again - but I believe its at least 80%

Not sure of its affects on rubber - eg plug wires, gaskets, tires, etc.

Something to investigate if you are serious about it

I plug the intake and exhaust to minimize condensation in the engine and exhaust. Put it away clean with fresh oil.

I ruined a set of Performance Machine wheels .... condensation over the winter bubbled the chrome where it pooled on the wheel lip/ledge, and I had an insulated attached garage.
So I'd consider a coating just where condensation can collect, especially on chrome.

 

You do realize that silicone is actually a drying agent (think those little packets in electronics you buy, and rechargeable gun-safe dehumidifier beads, yup those little beads are silicone.) so thats actually drying out the plastic, it just looks deeper black from the liquid on top of it. You know how vehicle plastics turn from a nice black when the vehicle is new to a rather dingy black or grey color? thats the plastic drying out.




I wouldnt willingly spray my bike with WD-40. Much better things you can do to protect it. A good through wash AND dry before you put it up is going to be your best bet. If you have a little paint chip or something on the frame, either sand and touch it up with some spray paint, or dab some motor oil on the bare metal once any present rust has been removed.

 

sounds like a poor chrome job than anything.

I've got chrome wheels on my truck, had them for 5 years now and they've been run in the snow and all winter every year. Given I do rinse them off weekly when I've driven out in the snowy roads and they've salted. Only one has pealing/ bubbling issues. and its only in one spot and has been that way for 3 years, never grew any more. I'm going to say the chrome didnt stick there do to improper prep before chroming.

 

Bad chrome is likely, I agree.

The pitting (well worse than pitting) was on both wheels at the spot on the rim where moisture would pool. Thought PM was a good brand. Called about it, and it wasn't warranted.

Garage cold at night, warmed up a bit in the day, and so on.... only explanation is condensation pooling there and causing the corrosion.

Rest of rim finishes were fine. Just mentioned it as its a consideration for some, and a coating there would have helped, but not all over the wheels and tires.

 

WD40 spray down for winter? Lol....Is this The Onion edition of hd forums??

 

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Thats exactly what i have been doing to my bikes over the past 4+ decades i have been riding on the street.

But i do one more thing thats extreemly important with todays crappy pump fuel with ethenol in it which is fill the tank wit fresh fuel ,give it a jhealthy dose of sta-bils Marine grade fuel stabilizer .

Then i take the bike for a 10 min ride to ensure the complete fuel system gets the fresh fuel treated with a healthy dose of the stabilizer just prior to shutting it down for winter storrage.

Have done that every winter here in NY with my bikes and never ever had 1 carb/fuel related issue in spring start up where bikes always fired up just like they were run a day ago running perfect.

Same goes for storing my mower , snow blower,or my classic muscle car (69 chevelle SS 396) i have owned for 36+ yrs for off season storage and have never had any fuel related with those vehicles/motors when firing up for the new season.

I prefer the marine grade sta-bil vs std version because the marine grade is formulated for max protection in the harshest environment having a lot of moisture avail along with lrg temp swings/variation too that both can cause havick with todays fuel esp with ethenol.

Scott

Scott