Replacing compensator
#1
Replacing compensator
Maybe someone can help me here,I did a search and couldn't find much info on this.The comp on my 2011 Streetglide is making a lot of racket,last time a opened up the primary it had some gaulding on the ramps.Im gonna replace it,my question is do I need to replace the spring pack also?...is there a way to see if the spring pack is still good enough to use again? Thanks!
#3
#5
Is there a re-stocking fee if you buy something you determine later that you don't need and bring it back unopened? If you buy it you have it on hand while your machine is in pieces and you decide you need it. I was under the impression that the comp came as a kit including the new spring pack. That it doesn't, surprises me. Seems the price keeps going up. My new comp came with a new rotor and spring pack for about $275.. The newer machines don't need the rotor but the comp is still pretty close to $275 without the rotor. Now even a new spring pack is additional? How about the little glue in lube piece? Is it extra also? Don't forget a new gasket and lube plus a T70 Torx bit. Almost seems like buying a new scooter one piece at a time.
#7
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#8
Sorry accidentally hit send.......You will also need the special adhesive and special dispensing gun. I bought the adhesive and jury rigged a dispenser, that was a mistake and recommend purchasing the dispenser. According to the description, the spring pack is more robust with the SE comp, I would not reuse the old ones, JMHO.
#9
More confusion, the new comp comes with or doesn't come with new springs. In an '11 or newer we are talking about the SE style factory comp which requires the belleville springs. No one has actually verified that that the newest style comp uses the same springs as the previous versions, though I suspect it does. I have read ZERO reports of belleville spring failure in all of the comp failures on various forums. All have dealt with excessive wear at the cam/sprocket spoke contact point so to date, no one has cycled the first belleville springs to crack or disintegrate. My own theory of the wear failure is that the springs are so strong that they over power the lube film strength. New springs would cause that cycle to repeat at the original rate while used springs might have lost some tension and would allow a slower wear rate. Weigh that against the possibility of the springs eventually fatiguing and breaking into pieces allowing spring steel chunks to float around inside the primary case. If it were me, I think with a new comp, new springs are appropriate.