I just replaced the high flow baffles in my 4" Rineharts and I'm having trouble getting the left end cap to stay seated against the muffler canister. I applied a generous amount of ultra copper silicone to the end cap before installation and it still slides back about a 1/8" after a short ride. The baffle does not move, just the end cap. The screws are tight with loctite applied and the right side has not budged. Has anyone got any ideas how to keep it in place?

I should add that the replacement baffles came with two long screws, lock nuts and a drill bit in the hardware kit. I'm not thrilled about drilling out one of the threads on a $100 end cap unless that's the only solution.

 

Did you let the silicone set up, before riding bike. Check the label & see what the cure time is. Good luck.

 

I actually had the opposite problem with my high flow baffles. They were too long and my caps wouldn't go in all the way. Several minutes with the baffles and the bench grinder and the finally fit. As said above, high temp RTV and let it dry over night. Those things won't move at all.

 

I let it dry two days before running it. Ultra copper silicone is supposed to fully cure in 24 hours.

 

I wish that was the case, but it moved. I had to beat the **** thing off with a rubber mallet because of rust, now I can't keep it seated.

 

Really?!? Holy crap! Are they Rinehart baffles? They should be snug as a bug in a rug in there and the caps should NOT move!

 

Yep, brand new Rinehart high flow baffles. The right side has not moved, but the left side slips back 1/8". The holes in the muffler canister are larger than the screw diameter, so it slides back because of exhaust pressure I guess. The baffle has not moved.

 

I had an early set of Rinehart 4" mufflers, endcaps retained like you describe. The current 4" mufflers have a bolt through the endcap that retains the baffle too. The early ones I had spit the baffle out one day, and Rinehart sent me a brand new set of mufflers with no questions asked. The new set has the through bolt.

 

I'll still have to drill out the threads for the top end cap screw and then through the baffle. The drill bit they include is larger in diameter than the screw. It seems like a half azz way to solve the issue. So do all the new 4" Rineharts ship with the through bolt?

 

Has anyone used the drill bit and long bolt/nut that Rinehart includes with the 2.5" baffle hardware kit? If so did it keep the end cap flush?