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Clutch "trick?"

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  #21  
Old 11-09-2014, 11:18 PM
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Aftermarket cable with bars, and Redline fluids. Ran Redline previously, and no overfill this time (was a consideration).
 
  #22  
Old 11-10-2014, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bklynbob
WD is not a lubricant.
Exactly not a lubricant it's a penetrate, people are using it to lube things that should never have it on where it is being put, it will actually wash lubes out.
 
  #23  
Old 11-10-2014, 07:18 AM
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I use tri flow and possibly the lever is broke at the pin hole. Take the lever off and check. I had this happen to me before.
 
  #24  
Old 11-10-2014, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by santajim
Exactly not a lubricant it's a penetrate, people are using it to lube things that should never have it on where it is being put, it will actually wash lubes out.
Not a lubricant...not a penetrant...it's a WATER DISPLACEMENT material. Works very well for that. You are correct in that it will wash lubes out, but it does something even worse...it will prevent real lubricants from attaching to the surface you want lubricated. If you have points ignition on a vehicle and you need to get the water out of it, WD40 is the stuff you want. It has no other use in my workshop.


I hate the stuff.
 
  #25  
Old 11-10-2014, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Hausguy
My understanding is that newer bikes, and yours qualifies, have teflon coated cables and SHOULD NOT be lubricated. Also, aside from a possible mis-adjustment by the tech, the type of oil in the primary could make a difference. I had problems with Syn 3 and as soon as I changed it out all was well.
^^+1 my neighbor used Dri-Slide on his 2013 Limited and after a couple hours it gummed up so badly he had to pull into a dealer and pay the shop $50 to flush it out. New cables are Teflon coated - not sure which year they started this on though. I know my '05 was the older style and Dri-Slide worked great in it.
 
  #26  
Old 11-10-2014, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Hausguy
My understanding is that newer bikes, and yours qualifies, have teflon coated cables and SHOULD NOT be lubricated. Also, aside from a possible mis-adjustment by the tech, the type of oil in the primary could make a difference. I had problems with Syn 3 and as soon as I changed it out all was well.
thinkin the same thing...a quick oil change in the primary mixing old with new can cause more slipping than assuming the tech did a full adjustment and messed it up.
 
  #27  
Old 11-10-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Veekness
Not a lubricant...not a penetrant...it's a WATER DISPLACEMENT material. Works very well for that. You are correct in that it will wash lubes out, but it does something even worse...it will prevent real lubricants from attaching to the surface you want lubricated. If you have points ignition on a vehicle and you need to get the water out of it, WD40 is the stuff you want. It has no other use in my workshop.


I hate the stuff.
that was true years ago when it had the rocket on the can. (WD40-water displacement on the 40th try) Now its marketed as a lubricant to be competitive.
 
  #28  
Old 11-10-2014, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by orangevette
that was true years ago when it had the rocket on the can. (WD40-water displacement on the 40th try) Now its marketed as a lubricant to be competitive.
Agreed. As I stated, there are certianly better products to free up gummed up clutch cables than WD40, but I just cut and pasted the "lubricant" statement from their own website. I'm sorry guys, but if WD40 says THEIR product is a lubricant, I'm going with..... it is.

No matter, it will still cut out and dislove whatever is causeing the cable to bind, and have a crappy pull. So for that reason, it has worked for me countless times in the past.
 

Last edited by bikerlaw; 11-10-2014 at 09:45 AM.
  #29  
Old 11-12-2014, 09:17 PM
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Ok....compensator, primary chain, tensioner, clutch basket, main shaft bearing and race, other parts, etc...can't remember them all.

$50 ESP deductible.
 
  #30  
Old 11-12-2014, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RCinLaveen
Ok....compensator, primary chain, tensioner, clutch basket, main shaft bearing and race, other parts, etc...can't remember them all.

$50 ESP deductible.

For 50 bucks, who CARES what's wrong. Let them fix it all!
 


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