I have a 2011 FLHP (103 engine) with an oil leak at the stator lead.

According to what I have read, this is supposed to have the screaming eagle compensator as well as a higher amperage stator.

However, when researching part number (and prices) for what I would need to get, I noticed that the part numbers for these two parts are the same as a 2011 FLHR with a 96 cid.

I have not taken anything a part, so this may be a dumb question, but is there a way I can visually determine if the compensator is screaming eagle and the amperage output of the stator??

If I don't have the screaming eagle compensator, I would probably spring for one since I'm in the neighborhood

Thank you
Steve

 

Your '11 does have the SE compensator, not sure about the stator though.

 

Just a suggestion. There have been quite a few guys complaining about the seal leaking where the wires go into the casing. Seems to develop on quite a few bikes since 2009 to 2013. Most guys just clean off the oil around the wires and seal then put on some black silicone. No pressure in there as such you just want to stop the oil from leaking out.

 

Nute - I tried that last year. Worked for a bit, but it's come back. The manual says I should be able to just replace the o-rings on the stator lead. However, the parts guys say that isn't so.

 

From what I can see on the Parts Finder, all the 2011 Road Kings, including the Police model, have the same stator assembly.


http://www.granitestateharleystore.c...REGULATOR%5CFH

 

All of the stators are 50 amp now and use the same rotor since 2011 I believe.

In 2014 they started using a new revision for the Comp and a new stator which is supposed to have better case sealing.
I think it has three non-removable o-ring vice only having two in previous years. Besides that it's the same stator.

2013 and below stator was pn: 29987-06B. The 2014 pn is: 29987-06D

I've heard that the 2014 number will retrofit to 2013 and below bikes...

So anyway...check with your dealer before ordering and find out if you can get whatever parts are needed to retrofit to the 2014 Compensator as well maybe.

 

You'll need to replace the stator. The grommet that protrudes from the case is formed on the wires. i just ordered one yesterday from Cycle Electrics. Check them out. They're cheaper and charge higher at idle than the factory stators. Also search the threads on replacement. With a small amount of grinding you can do the entire job without removing the inner primary, which saves you time and money-FWIW. Good luck

 

Update on this. I purchased most of my parts Saturday (forgot the starter seal). The stator I got was the 2014 part # (29987-06D), so the 2014 version does retrofit to earlier models.

As I was trying to educate myself, I stumbled on a free preview put out by FixMyHog on U-Tube.

In this one, Bob LaRosa used a very light coating of black RTV silicone on the sealing serfaces. It served both as a sealant as well as a lubricant for pushing the stator lead thru.

This seems like a great idea to me, but had not been mentioned by anyone else, including the service manuel. In fact, the service manuel says to use either isopropyl alcohol or glass cleaner as a lubricant with no mention of any kind of sealer needed

Has anyone used ATV silicone when swapping their stator, or is it not necessary?

 

Its a bitch job as the outer and inner primary must be removed to repace the stator. Its the only way to fix the leak until the new begins to leak, if ever. You can get by with the ATF but you are just a temporary fix. My ESP covered it, nearly a $500 bill at the dealership.

 

Who is this Manuel guy you keep talking about?? I followed the instructions in my manual and the job came out fine. I replaced my voltage regulator, battery and stator two weekends ago.