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FLHP stator, compensator question

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  #11  
Old 10-27-2014 | 09:13 PM
wiseguyups's Avatar
wiseguyups
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From: Marysville, OH
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I did one on my '00 FLHRCI didn't use any kind of sealant no problems
 
  #12  
Old 10-27-2014 | 10:36 PM
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GNrider
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From: Long Beach Ca.
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I've done this several times for friends. I always use silicone- black as both lubricant and sealer to prevent leaks. There is a thread here that you can do light grinding on the inner primary and remove the rotor without removing the inner primary. Really worth the read, makes the job much simpler and doesn't create any problems.
 
  #13  
Old 10-28-2014 | 05:51 AM
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Watch Guy
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Western Canada
Default The warranty covers any leaks

so get them to fix the leak and then find out what you have inside. Used to be they would replace the whole stator if the wire coming from the case leaked but now I've heard they only replace the rubber seal.
 
  #14  
Old 10-30-2014 | 11:49 AM
semiret's Avatar
semiret
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From: N/A
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Thank you all for the responses.

I need to remove the inner primary because i want to change the shifter seal. Also, it seems it would make changing the stator a bit easier.

I think I'll also go with the black RTV silicone. Just makes sense

Thank you all again
 
  #15  
Old 10-30-2014 | 12:04 PM
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soft 02
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+1 for cycle Electric but the HD one has a revised case plug. I did mine yesterday and it charges at 14v at idle.
 
  #16  
Old 05-03-2020 | 05:33 AM
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jordan1200
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From: Mississauga
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Originally Posted by soft 02
+1 for cycle Electric but the HD one has a revised case plug. I did mine yesterday and it charges at 14v at idle.
I know this thread is old. I hope you get this
Did you install the HD stator or cycle electric?
Which one charged 14 volts at idle
 
  #17  
Old 05-03-2020 | 08:35 AM
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soft 02
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Originally Posted by jordan1200
I know this thread is old. I hope you get this
Did you install the HD stator or cycle electric?
Which one charged 14 volts at idle

I went with cycle electric. Still have the same one in the bike and 140,000 miles.
 
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