'13 Softail Slim, no catchcan, bypass hose routed below the frame.




'13 Sportster Iron no catchcan, routed below the frame...




T.

 

i am having an issue with this as well i know this is old. does the excess just build up and drain down or are the hoses attached.

 

Yes, attached hose to the breather bolts will route the hot, oily, oxygen depleted air to the end of the hose.

Here is our cleanest External Breather System. Not only is it a very sanitary look, it can "transform" to EPA/CARB compliant, should that need ever arise.




And here is an FAQ on the Transformer™ with some questions that we did not cover in the first video-

 

Doing mine this weekend. Thanks for all the pics and part numbers in some cases. Great stuff

 

I did mine (2011 Street Glide 103) in the same fashion as the OP and have found that it does catch a little oil and moisture. My catch can is vented through the top and will occasionally push moisture out of the can. Anyone else have this issue? Didn't want to vent it to the ground but if I must then I will.

 

I haven't been through the 68 pages of this thread to see all the variations, but if you're running the OEM air cleaner in a late model touring bike air cleaner housing, you can pull the breather tube connection out of the tube in the back of the air cleaner, attach a rubber hose to it, drill a hole in the back of the cleaner housing, and run the hose out and down.

To clarify, each breather bolt has a tube connected to it. The tubes are joined together by a T-fitting, with the third prong of the fitting going into a crooked little tube that goes into a hole in the air cleaner itself (to route the goo to the intake). You pull the third prong of the fitting out of the crooked little tube and attach that to your new hose to be routed out and down. You'll want to remove the crooked little tube from the air filter since it will now allow unfiltered air to enter, and plug the hole (or just plug the tube itself). This costs no more than the cost of the hose, plus an old screw or plug of some kind (make sure it's something that won't get sucked in!).

Writing this at work, so no pics handy, but I can take some if it's not clear.

Links below for the hose I used (just for example - you don't need that much), and some silicone plugs (again, you don't need this many, and you could just put a screw in the hole for free, probably).

 

Almost everything I get in the catch can is water, and maybe a few drops of oil... kinda looks like light brown, real watery, sludge.
I have been using catch cans for years now, just because I like any "potential" mess to be "caught". In the late spring I only have to dump mine once or twice all summer, after the temps have warmed up and stay above 70F outside, until fall. In cooler weather catch cans are just going to get condensation in them, and if they are too small its going to "mist" out of them. I made my own catch can (see post 627, 631, & 633), it doesn't mist out of it. But in the fall and winter, I have to dump a lot more often, every 300-400 miles on long rides and more often on shorter riding (multiple startups/heat cycles). Recently I started playing with a "see thru" catch can just because...

If it doesn't bother you, and all you are getting is overwhelmingly just water, vent it to ground, or think about a bigger catch can where the moisture can drop out.

 

I posted these in the Dyna forum but this thread is full of inspiration. I just ran a pair of 1/4" fuel hoses to the ground. If it starts dripping on the floor or making a mess I will look into a catch can. The 1/4" vacuum tube elbows were found at the auto part store and the grommets I slid them into came from Ace Hardware. I used 1/4" copper tubing for unions because that's what I had laying around. I also shoved a couple of inches of copper tube into the ends of the hoses. That way they stick straight down and aren't flopping around. It also prevents the hose from collapsing where I zip tied them to the frame.

I used about half a can of Seafoam spray to clean all the residue from the intake. I held it around 2000 rpm and fogged it. That may have been a dumb thing to do but that's what I did. I know that that moisture in the exhaust can damage NOx sensors when they are at operating temperature. Seeing NOx sensors fail in a Diesel engine shortly after an EGR cooler failure isn't uncommon. O2 sensors may or may not be the same.

 

Finished mine today. May have to change the tubing depending on how the heat affects it. Have maybes 30-40 bucks in it.







I have fixed the kink in this line since the photo

 

Nice work!