Got around to doing my '19 softail. Had opened up the air filter 3 times and had oil in there (bike has less than 500 miles since I'm usually riding my tourer).
Ran each breather separate. Front to a catch can. Rear to the left side ground. Used some parts I had left over from my '14 SG.
The idea is: "he banjo fittings and chrome tubes route the vented gasses upward so gravity can keep any expelled oil droplets in the engine where they belong"... sounds good and is the only one the makes the air comming out of the heads go upward so most o the oil can drip back down.
I know most people are using 1/4 fuel line for these mods, But what would be the smallest ID tubing that you could use without fear of pluging up the system and causing any damage or running issues with the motor ?
Got around to doing my '19 softail. Had opened up the air filter 3 times and had oil in there (bike has less than 500 miles since I'm usually riding my tourer).
Ran each breather separate. Front to a catch can. Rear to the left side ground. Used some parts I had left over from my '14 SG.
There is going to be some oil accumulation so how you gonna keep it off of your belt? It doesn't seem like much, but it will accumulate and migrate rearward.
I had issues with this setup on my Dyna getting an oil film on my rear brakes and tire after a few thousand miles. I replaced the down hose with a breather filter. Much cleaner look and no mess.
There is going to be some oil accumulation so how you gonna keep it off of your belt? It doesn't seem like much, but it will accumulate and migrate rearward.
I had issues with this setup on my Dyna getting an oil film on my rear brakes and tire after a few thousand miles. I replaced the down hose with a breather filter. Much cleaner look and no mess.
Well so far every HD bike I have had I have done similar (open hoses) and never had oil mist (3 other HDs). Until my M8s.
So my tourer below has a catch can plus the A1 oil cap breather (since doing the oil cap breather my catch can is empty and this has solved oil/sludge out the AF breathers).
So for my softail (pictures posted above) I do have a catch can for the front cylinder hose. The other hose for the rear cylinder I thought for now I'd keep under watch and if needed, I'll put a catch can on that hose too. But I ride my tourer most of the time since I need to carry stuff to and fro work and when I bring the wife she needs storage. So softail gets ridden lots less miles.
I know I'm a little late, on the spraying water in the intake while it is running, to remove carbon posts from earlier, but here goes.
With the engine at operating temperature (important), mist water into the intake. Do NOT allow it to glug, or stream into the engine. You can hydraulic the engine and bend a rod. You may have to do this a couple of times to get rid of the carbon.
We used to do this on carbureted cars, that (grandma) drove. They saw low speed, or were idled a lot. You would fill a Coke bottle with water, turn it upside down, and dribble it into the carburetor with the engine running 2000 - 2500 rpms. The engine would buck and fart for a little while, then clear up.
Just recently made a catch can for about $40. After using the DK one for a while now, I wanted a bit larger one so I could just dump it when I did oil changes and not have to worry about it misting if I didn’t and making a mess. In cool weather that could be as little as a couple 300 mile days riding backroads... So after searching around I found a sturdy aluminum waterproof canister used for dry storage. It already had two separate chambers. And I wanted an easy way to attached it to my down tubes that was easily removable but secure. Here’s what I came up with in case somebody else needs ideas. About $17 for canister. Used these clips $8 a set, took 2 sets. To the front right is the lid, drilled perimeter vent holes, center hole for hose connector on top. Front left is the bottom of the top chamber, drilled perimeter vent holes and a 1/4” center hole for inlet tube to dump the oil in the lower chamber(sitting in the back). Lid screwed on the top chamber with fitting and inlet tube in place. All put together and fitting painted... Mounted low on down tube with no clearance issues... so far no issues at all. I’m sure somebody will have a better idea, but thought I’d post what I did in case it could help anyone else with idea.
Just recently made a catch can for about $40. After using the DK one for a while now, I wanted a bit larger one so I could just dump it when I did oil changes and not have to worry about it misting if I didn’t and making a mess. In cool weather that could be as little as a couple 300 mile days riding backroads... So after searching around I found a sturdy aluminum waterproof canister used for dry storage. It already had two separate chambers. And I wanted an easy way to attached it to my down tubes that was easily removable but secure. Here’s what I came up with in case somebody else needs ideas. About $17 for canister. Used these clips $8 a set, took 2 sets.
Pretty sweet! Do you have links to the canister and brackets??
The the clips I used are sized for 1-3/8 to 1-5/8 (1-1/4 is too tight on the frame doesn't hold as good because it doesn't seat deep enough), just bolted these back to back to each other using #10 x 1/2" SS Screws with the lock nuts put on backwards (so the tapered part of locknuts is towards the clips) so the nuts will set deeper in the clip's taper
Then whatever fitting you want for the top, just remember you need a short tube to run the inlet into the bottom chamber.
I was going to try a 90 with a compression fitting using a 1/4" copper down tube to the lower chamber... but you can find whatever at Lowes on that stuff, or brake line fittings at NAPA.
So far no issue at all.. doesn't move, clearance is fine... we'll see.
Another one, just added a side vent tube, instead of drilling perimeter vent holes in the top, everything else the same...
07-09-2019 | 07:16 AM
