I used a 45 elbow on the rear port to route the lines out and away from the throttle body and to get the rear hose to drop vertically.
I could never get just the hoses to hang true enough to get the filter to hang vertical.
I used some 90 degree vacuum/heater hose elbows to get the hose to hang like I wanted.
I used a 45 elbow on the rear port to route the lines out and away from the throttle body and to get the rear hose to drop vertically.
I could never get just the hoses to hang true enough to get the filter to hang vertical.
I used some 90 degree vacuum/heater hose elbows to get the hose to hang like I wanted.
Why run a filter on the end if you are venting under the bike when it will eventually just cake up? Why not just run an open tube?
Keep the Critters out or does it actually serve a purpose?
Like Iceman said, the filter should catch the dribble of oil. If not I will replace it with a small solid catch can from DK Customs.
The filter will need to be cleaned occasionally, I hope it can last from one oil change to the next. If not, the above mentioned catch can should contain anything the engine spews. If the catch can fills in short order, I have bigger issues.
I put a squeeze clamp on the filter hose to allow it to come off easily when needed.
I have only ridden it twice with this setup, one with temps in the mid 90's, and it held together. Will report in a month or so to let everyone know how it does over several miles.
Several reasons I didn't just run it to open atmosphere.
If you leave an open tube anywhere, spiders and dirt dobbers can nest in them and clog them. Condensate drains sometimes are clogged this way.
I didn't want oil spewing back on the swing arm, rear tire, and everything behind the open hose.
I tried running the tube under the bike and was going to put the filter on the end of the tube but I could never find a way to route the tube and keep it off of the exhaust and make it look like I wanted. I like the look of the small filter too.
I can monitor the amount of oil I am catching and decide if it is excessive.
Some installation notes.
I drilled and tapped the ports in the backing plate that dump inside the breather with a 1/4-20 tap and put 1/4-20 set screws in those tapped holes. Loctite and bottom those screws in the tapped hole. You do not want them coming out.
Some use high temp RTV and that is good too. I like the solid seal a screw gave me.
Use a fresh gasket and O rings. You can get those at the dealership.
I spent more hours than I want to admit trying to route hose to my satisfaction. I tried using the braided steel lines I bought in the kit from DK Customs and it was so stiff I gave up on it.
After stepping back and also looking at some pics of other riders ideas, I went with the elbows and 3/8" hose. I found that I could adjust the hose under the breather to get the filter to hang centered.
Worth mentioning. This all started after a recent oil change. I do my service and always add 3 quarts at oil changes. This puts me at the halfway mark on the dipstick.
I checked the oil level recently while hot and noticed the level was at about the 3/4 full spot. Not sure why I have more oil than normal, maybe I didn't get a complete drain at the last change. A few ounces would make a difference on the stick and that may be the cause of my blow by.
I had a noticeable power bump on the first ride. I did not expect one and was surprised by it. I didn't notice it so much on the second ride but who knows.
It makes sense to keep this oil fouled, hot, oxygen depleted air out of your intake stream.
I used a 45 elbow on the rear port to route the lines out and away from the throttle body and to get the rear hose to drop vertically.
I could never get just the hoses to hang true enough to get the filter to hang vertical.
I used some 90 degree vacuum/heater hose elbows to get the hose to hang like I wanted.
I wonder how well this method would work with the Stock "Football" Cover and the Round SE Stage 1 Kit w/ K&N Round Filter...
Anyone tried it or have a similar setup? I do like the way this one looks... I just don't know if I have the tools to drill the plate strait..
We have been doing this ever since H-D, thanks to EPA/CARB has gotten more strict with their stupid regulations. H-D had to dump breather gases back into the air cleaner to have cleaner air.... And everyone has shown the result of this brilliant idea. Anyone with any sense knows that a well tuned motor, makes for less emissions. Running your breather system into a K&N filter, using Chevron fuel, some Marvel Mystery Oil treatment and replacing you plugs every 5K (Bosch Platinum), will help to keep your motor running clean. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...05535446630872
I wonder how well this method would work with the Stock "Football" Cover and the Round SE Stage 1 Kit w/ K&N Round Filter...
Anyone tried it or have a similar setup? I do like the way this one looks... I just don't know if I have the tools to drill the plate strait..
Contact DK Customs. They have a kit for every breather setup. Mine works for a breather that mounts with sandoffs to the rocker boxes. Some mount differently, including the stock mount with a football cover.
I am using an SE Ventilator, your stock breather needs a different setup. I believe yours may be just a bolt on with no drilling and tapping involved.
07-28-2017 | 09:21 PM
