Pic 1: Rear of backing plate. I used 1/4 x 1/8 brass NPT barbed fittings. The fitting in the left side of the pic should have been drilled pointing straight down. The one on the right was offset to allow for clearance of the TBW module. You don't want the hose pinched when assembled. It will cause pressure build up in the Rocker Box and cause the gasket(s) to leak!
The hose is 1/8" i.d. Bring your fitting to the auto parts store and have them match it up for you. The hose is inexpensive, get extra in case you make a measuring error. The hose is connected to a Universal "T" plastic fitting. You trim the ends of the fittings to match the i.d. of your hose.
Pic 2: Looking at the bottom of the backing plate. This is to show where the NPT fittings were placed in the barrels. I wouldn't go any closer to the end then I did.
Pic 3: Backing plate installed on the motor. The oil is vented away by the 3/8" i.d. hose that the "T" is connected to. I routed it in front of the front push rod tubes, then straight down and along the bottom of the frame. I used a clear silicone sealant to seal the oil vent holes. Let the silicone cure before using.
Pic 4: A crank vent breather filter is connected to the end of the hose. Hopefully this will catch and drips. I zip tied the hose to the frame and placed the filter where it will not interfere with my jack. I wanted to make this filter easily accessible for when I want to remove it for cleaning.
Pic 5: All dressed up. All the hoses seem to disappear. I'm sure I'll be experimenting with the location of the crank vent filter; but for now, it seems to work.
I've been reading this post for a little while. A thing crossed my mind. We're all talking about the 'breather' system. Doesn't a 'breather' mean that the engine exhales AND inhales through these passages? However long they are, by whatever means they're connected to the engine, how they're routed and where they're diverted etc. Having these lines connected to a reservoir that houses the waste or drip oil, or nearby the underside of the bike close to the ground (dust, dirt, sand, debris, etc.) even though protected by a small filtration device I would have concern dust and debris has a direct route to enter the engine. Not only that, but with these guys who have it so low to the ground and under the bike- what happens when you're riding down the interstate and get caught in a nasty rain storm? Couldn't the system ingest water more easily? Don't get me wrong, I understand the concept and I'm looking at options myself. Just want to play devil's advocate here
I've been reading this post for a little while. A thing crossed my mind. We're all talking about the 'breather' system. Doesn't a 'breather' mean that the engine exhales AND inhales through these passages? However long they are, by whatever means they're connected to the engine, how they're routed and where they're diverted etc. Having these lines connected to a reservoir that houses the waste or drip oil, or nearby the underside of the bike close to the ground (dust, dirt, sand, debris, etc.) even though protected by a small filtration device I would have concern dust and debris has a direct route to enter the engine. Not only that, but with these guys who have it so low to the ground and under the bike- what happens when you're riding down the interstate and get caught in a nasty rain storm? Couldn't the system ingest water more easily? Don't get me wrong, I understand the concept and I'm looking at options myself. Just want to play devil's advocate here
I've been reading this post for a little while. A thing crossed my mind. We're all talking about the 'breather' system. Doesn't a 'breather' mean that the engine exhales AND inhales through these passages? However long they are, by whatever means they're connected to the engine, how they're routed and where they're diverted etc. Having these lines connected to a reservoir that houses the waste or drip oil, or nearby the underside of the bike close to the ground (dust, dirt, sand, debris, etc.) even though protected by a small filtration device I would have concern dust and debris has a direct route to enter the engine. Not only that, but with these guys who have it so low to the ground and under the bike- what happens when you're riding down the interstate and get caught in a nasty rain storm? Couldn't the system ingest water more easily? Don't get me wrong, I understand the concept and I'm looking at options myself. Just want to play devil's advocate here
Apparently not. Each cylinder has a one way umbrella valve in the rocker box for the breather system, that only allows the crankcase to exhale, not inhale. Air can only flow out, not in.
Apparently not. Each cylinder has a one way umbrella valve in the rocker box for the breather system, that only allows the crankcase to exhale, not inhale. Air can only flow out, not in.
Ok, but it clearly states in the article above in the NOTE field that if the passages are vented to the atmosphere and not under intended vacuum/pressurization, or there's a leak in the tubes that it will cause the umbrella valves to flutter, which to me means they will open/close erratically which completely defeats the design and ability of the check valve to function as intended. No?
The umbrella valves operate in a manner similar to that of a reed valve in a two stroke engine, only with a different purpose. My question/concern is that on these bypasses or system redesigns, it appears everyone has defeated the original principle of operation by opening the system to atmospheric pressure, rather than the calculated split of crankcase pressure/engine vacuum (as intended). In doing so- is the system still pulling an effetive amount of oil vapor from the crank and expelling it to the atmosphere? Secondly, are the umbrella valves staying closed when they're designed to, to protect from foreign matter/moisture intrustion? If so, great! (but I'm still yet to be satisfied enough to adopt it on my own bike) and if not, what can be done differently to maintain the efficacy of the system AND protect the engine from outside contaminants (water, dust, etc.)
Read the sentence right before the one about umbrella valve flutter. Then they add the last sentence in as to me a way for you to understand your motor and maybe a scare tactic for the EPA emmisions (IMO).
Even if you never change the setup from factory (your choice) no one is forcing you. The umbrella valves can loose there elasticity and begin to let air back in the system.
A quick mechanic tip.
If you want to verify your umbrella valves are still working. When you change your oil leave the oil fill cap on and tight. Remove the drain plug for the oil drain. If it trickles out ,dribbles etc... they are working correctly.
If the oil drains fast like when you remove the oil cap and drains the oil fast they are bad. If they are bad it's stupid easy to fix.
Last edited by GriffinDenim13FLHX; 05-06-2017 at 01:13 PM.
These fittings blueglide88 is talking about are badass. .they're clean looking, work excellent and are tougher than ****. Like he said, you gotta cut the hose if you want to remove it.
05-05-2017 | 02:31 PM
Never Satisfied. .
