Finally did my breather bypass (pics included)
#412
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#416
After reading a lot of posts on doing a breather set up,I wanted something that was as hidden as possible and required the least amount of drilling, tapping and everything else. I wanted something that could easily be removed if needed. I wanted to utilize the oem set up so i took my stage one plate to the hardware store and purchased fuel hose (used in
the fuel tanks of two stroke lawn tools) that snuggly fit (had to be twisted and lubricated with water to get it in) into the breather holes. I put a hose in each hole as far as I could get it in which turned out to be just under an inch. I connected both hoses with a t connector. I then purchased black shrink wrap just to mask the color of the tube (yellow) and provide extra heat protection. I then drilled a hole just big enough to get the hose through, in the plate next to the lower stand off. I then routed the hose under the electric box (forget part name), down to the front cylinder and put the hose in a slot of fins horizontaly. Ran the tube over the oil filer mount and then down and out the bottom of the frame. There is a small hole in the frame that the hose fit in perfectly and keeping it in place. You really have to look for the hose to see it on the engine. I installed the filter and test drove about 25 miles. I pulled the filter off and all hoses were still intact. I also looked at the end of the tube under the frame and there was oil residue. I also put zip ties on the hose around the upper standoffs just in case the pressure (very little by the way) pushed the hoses out to keep them from being sucked into the opening.
the fuel tanks of two stroke lawn tools) that snuggly fit (had to be twisted and lubricated with water to get it in) into the breather holes. I put a hose in each hole as far as I could get it in which turned out to be just under an inch. I connected both hoses with a t connector. I then purchased black shrink wrap just to mask the color of the tube (yellow) and provide extra heat protection. I then drilled a hole just big enough to get the hose through, in the plate next to the lower stand off. I then routed the hose under the electric box (forget part name), down to the front cylinder and put the hose in a slot of fins horizontaly. Ran the tube over the oil filer mount and then down and out the bottom of the frame. There is a small hole in the frame that the hose fit in perfectly and keeping it in place. You really have to look for the hose to see it on the engine. I installed the filter and test drove about 25 miles. I pulled the filter off and all hoses were still intact. I also looked at the end of the tube under the frame and there was oil residue. I also put zip ties on the hose around the upper standoffs just in case the pressure (very little by the way) pushed the hoses out to keep them from being sucked into the opening.
I liked the way this looked and the ease of adapting to it, so I did the same with my '10 U/C. So far 5,500 miles, and no oil in/on my air filter. Bike seems to run fine.
Only question I have now, after looking at some of the other set ups...
Is the diameter of the hose big enough to handle the amount of air/oil coming out? It seems like all the other set ups are using bigger diameter hose(s).
Can this have any detrimental effect?
Thanks
#417
I liked the way this looked and the ease of adapting to it, so I did the same with my '10 U/C. So far 5,500 miles, and no oil in/on my air filter. Bike seems to run fine.
Only question I have now, after looking at some of the other set ups...
Is the diameter of the hose big enough to handle the amount of air/oil coming out? It seems like all the other set ups are using bigger diameter hose(s).
Can this have any detrimental effect?
Thanks
Only question I have now, after looking at some of the other set ups...
Is the diameter of the hose big enough to handle the amount of air/oil coming out? It seems like all the other set ups are using bigger diameter hose(s).
Can this have any detrimental effect?
Thanks
I would hesitate to use those fittings/zip ties in the chamber for two reasons:
There is not a high probability that they would come loose and be sucked in, but the possibility definitely exists...not worth it my opinion.
If you are wanting performance, that disturbance in the flow is going to detract from it.
On another note, here is a photo of the glop that was collected in a Catch-Can, using an EBS.
All that is garbage that would have otherwise gone into the throttle body and on into the combustion chambers.
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ronbeejer (11-13-2016)
#419
Yes, the air cleaner completely covers the T connector and yellow tubes. With the air cleaner installed you dont even know it's there, which is the reason I did it this way. By the way, I put around 10 K miles since this mod and not a drop of oil residue inside the filter, completely clean. I used to get a tablespoon amount of oil prior to this mod. The yellow tubes and zips ties are intact and no signs of wear or breakage. My sig photo is my current set up.
The following users liked this post:
ronbeejer (11-13-2016)
#420
Yes, the air cleaner completely covers the T connector and yellow tubes. With the air cleaner installed you dont even know it's there, which is the reason I did it this way. By the way, I put around 10 K miles since this mod and not a drop of oil residue inside the filter, completely clean. I used to get a tablespoon amount of oil prior to this mod. The yellow tubes and zips ties are intact and no signs of wear or breakage. My sig photo is my current set up.
Have a good one!
John
The following users liked this post:
ronbeejer (11-13-2016)