Well, I ran mine to the open air, no can or filter, and not a drop of oil has come out in almost 1000 miles so far. Not sure if these are even necessary, except to add bling. Just my $.02.
Even if you have little/no perceptible oil coming out , you are still benefiting performance wise.
There is definitely hot, oxygen depleted air coming out of the breathers, and by not putting it into the air cleaner, you are leaving more room for cooler, oxygen rich air to go into your combustion chambers. This equates to more power, cooler running, and better MPG.
Not a lot, but enough to be consistently measurable, and all the little things add up.
I recently reached out to Kevin I DK Customs and he and his group are more than knowledgeable and willing to help me out. I've got to tell you guys, your customer service and willingness to help or second to none.
I ordered the DK Customs Complete HiFlow 606 Air Cleaner Dyna Softail Touring - Rushmore even though I have a 2012 Road King. Kevin assured me that was the right kit to use. It seems counterintuitive at first until I realized that it fit perfectly. Thanks to Kevin and the customer service team for all your help. I used my Jocker Machine cover for the K&N filter and DK customized my order with braided hoses and fittings I'd need. Thanks again to Kevin & DK Customs for making this super simple and easy! It's not everyday you get exceptional customer service like this.
Here's how it turned out:
EDIT: I have noticed 12-15 degree temp drop in my oil...Averaging around 209 degrees after running at highway speeds (65-75 mph) for about 2 hours.
Last edited by The Cheesehead; 05-16-2016 at 09:42 PM.
I recently reached out to Kevin I DK Customs and he and his group are more than knowledgeable and willing to help me out. I've got to tell you guys, your customer service and willingness to help or second to none.
I ordered the DK Customs Complete HiFlow 606 Air Cleaner Dyna Softail Touring - Rushmore even though I have a 2012 Road King. Kevin assured me that was the right kit to use. It seems counterintuitive at first until I realized that it fit perfectly. Thanks to Kevin and the customer service team for all your help. I used my Jocker Machine cover for the K&N filter and DK customized my order with braided hoses and fittings I'd need. Thanks again to Kevin & DK Customs for making this super simple and easy! It's not everyday you get exceptional customer service like this.
Wow, is this thread still going? Since I'm checking in on my old thread, I've found filters to be more aesthetic than functional. They give the illusion that they are somehow containing or filtering, they do neither. They get soaked then drip and the oil only goes one way so filtering is moot, that's why running the drip line to a benign location is the only practical option for me. If the venting somehow drew air back into the motor then a filter would make sense but it does not. The motor appears to expel a mist outward as a venting feature. Oil level has no apparent bearing however, higher level or rpm's appears to produce more 'Blow-by'.
By all means, use a filter if aesthetics is your preference.
Thanks to everyone for making this a popular thread and a method for our esteemed sponsors to market their products, I've found the information most informative.
I've found filters to be more aesthetic than functional. They give the illusion that they are somehow containing or filtering, they do neither. They get soaked then drip and the oil only goes one way so filtering is moot, that's why running the drip line to a benign location is the only practical option for me.
So, can you get these filters wet? I notice a lot of the filters are paper...won't they dissolve under the oil puke?
The filters we use on our Air Cleaner and on the External Breather Systems can get wet. They will not dissolve. They are made of a durable cotton gauze material.
On the EBS, the filter will absorb the oil carry-over so that you do not get dripping onto your engine or garage floor.
Wow, is this thread still going? Since I'm checking in on my old thread, I've found filters to be more aesthetic than functional. They give the illusion that they are somehow containing or filtering, they do neither. They get soaked then drip and the oil only goes one way so filtering is moot, that's why running the drip line to a benign location is the only practical option for me. If the venting somehow drew air back into the motor then a filter would make sense but it does not. The motor appears to expel a mist outward as a venting feature. Oil level has no apparent bearing however, higher level or rpm's appears to produce more 'Blow-by'.
By all means, use a filter if aesthetics is your preference.
Thanks to everyone for making this a popular thread and a method for our esteemed sponsors to market their products, I've found the information most informative.
Even though it's an old thread, it's still very useful . I just re- entered the HD world after a five year absence. During that time I learned how to use a computer and Internet forums. Before that, I had no idea of the breather situation. This thread enabled me to correct the problem. The huge variety of breather by- pass methods is incredible. I'm sure it will help many other owners as well , long into the future. Thanks again. I learn new things here ALL the time, which I am grateful for.
My spin at a complete home made setup. Made my own breather bolts as didnt want to drill my Big Sucker intake and no one had long enough breather bolts. I have the luxury of space to hide under stock cover as I enjoy the stock look. Turned out better than expected. Im choosing not to use filter on the end. Can feel the air moving out the tube easily so its doing its job. Depending on the residue of oil on frame rail, may have to rethink exit angle or cut tubing with angle at end to direct downward.
After reading a lot of posts on doing a breather set up,I wanted something that was as hidden as possible and required the least amount of drilling, tapping and everything else. I wanted something that could easily be removed if needed. I wanted to utilize the oem set up so i took my stage one plate to the hardware store and purchased fuel hose (used in
the fuel tanks of two stroke lawn tools) that snuggly fit (had to be twisted and lubricated with water to get it in) into the breather holes. I put a hose in each hole as far as I could get it in which turned out to be just under an inch. I connected both hoses with a t connector. I then purchased black shrink wrap just to mask the color of the tube (yellow) and provide extra heat protection. I then drilled a hole just big enough to get the hose through, in the plate next to the lower stand off. I then routed the hose under the electric box (forget part name), down to the front cylinder and put the hose in a slot of fins horizontaly. Ran the tube over the oil filer mount and then down and out the bottom of the frame. There is a small hole in the frame that the hose fit in perfectly and keeping it in place. You really have to look for the hose to see it on the engine. I installed the filter and test drove about 25 miles. I pulled the filter off and all hoses were still intact. I also looked at the end of the tube under the frame and there was oil residue. I also put zip ties on the hose around the upper standoffs just in case the pressure (very little by the way) pushed the hoses out to keep them from being sucked into the opening.
Just finished this design this morning. I have '10 Ultra Classic with a stage 1 set up from Fuel Moto. It was easy, will come back with feedback as soon as I put some miles on it.
05-15-2016 | 11:40 AM
