Finally got mine done on my '06 RK this past week or so. I discovered that my stage one air cleaner used the stock breather bolts that had the 1/4" hose nipples on them. I used 1/4" fuel line. Ran a small straight piece of hose coming off the breather bolts. Used 1/4 90 degree connectors. Ran another straight section of hose on each side down towards the new crank breather.
When I first did this last week, I just went down to Advance Auto to see what they had. At that time I used a 1/4" 3 way tee and a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter at the bottom to go into the crank breather that they had in stock. Rode a few hundred miles last week with this setup and really liked it. In fact, there used to be some black residue at the bottom half of my right side muffler after i'd ride. That is now gone with the external breather.
Decided to do it a little better a few days ago. On Amazon, I found a 3 way Y connector that is 1/4 x 1/4 x 3/8. I think this allows a little better flow compared to the tee. Also eliminated the 1/4 to 3/8 adapter doing this. I also bought a 10 pack of spring clamps. There was no way to tighten a conventional hose clamp up top as it is inside the backplate. The spring clips worked great there, so I went ahead and used them at all the connections since I had them. With the air cleaner cover installed you just see the crank breather underneath it and above the timing cover. If it ever starts getting messy there, i'll then just re-route to underneath the bike.
One note...on the original setup, the rubber pieces fit over the breather bolts and went into the air cleaner back plate. By eliminating these. there was one small open section on each side near the new hoses up top. I took about an inch and a half of some clear hose and it sandwiches between the new hose and the backing plate to seal this area.
NutZ, I copied your install 99% of the way and even sent your link/post to other people. Nothing but respect in that regards. I got a question, though. What kind of PSI comes out of the breathers? Is it enough to get the right side up the inch or so to the Tee and hit the downhill slide? Any concerns there?
What are the pros/cons to running up/down vs the heads butterfly breather elevation in running the exit tubing?
I've seen a number of setups over the years since HD started using the 'vent to intake' system and guys running both directions. Just curious.
I've always run mine down, but some say the slight amount of oil in the mist, if the tubing runs up, will drain back into the crankcase.
Thoughts? Much appreciated.
Thanks JetD
I contemplated this myself. When running my external breather system, I wanted to go up under the tank and then down the frame, instead of down from the breather bolt, where it would be visible.
As you can see in this pic, the head deck is about 1/2" to 3/4" higher than the breather hole. The oil would have to fill this space, before then spilling back into the head and draining back to the engine.
I was concerned that over time, this low spot would fill with oil and hamper the venting. I decided to run mine down, both for any draining that needed to happen and for unrestricted venting.
NutZ, I copied your install 99% of the way and even sent your link/post to other people. Nothing but respect in that regards. I got a question, though. What kind of PSI comes out of the breathers? Is it enough to get the right side up the inch or so to the Tee and hit the downhill slide? Any concerns there?
You don't want any low spots in the vent hose. It will collect any oil in the mist and clog the vent.
here's the rest of the information that goes with the pics above from a previous post of mine for you guys that want to do this. it really is easy to do.
SE Ventilator cause I like the way it looks and I already have it installed. With the K&N filter, flows 287CFM which is fine for the heads I have which flow 252CFM
(2) Dorman 785-410 1/8" MNPT - 1/4" hose fitting (advanced auto)
(10') 1/4" vacuum line (advanced auto) yep plenty left over.
(1) 1/4" vacuum hose "T" (advanced auto)
(1) 1/4" to 3/8" vacuum hose adapter (advanced auto)
(1) Spectre 3991 Breather Filter (advanced auto) http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/s...m=spectre+3991
total - $15.49
took the backplate and drilled 25/64" holes in it
Then I used a tap, M10x1.25 to thread the holes
Then I cleaned the breather holes and oil drain holes thoroughly with brake cleaner
Then I siliconed the oil drain holes that go back into air intake (yep that was the only color hi-temp/oil resistant silicone I had on hand.
Then I screwed in the fittings, attached hoses, attached clamps, inserted "T" in proper location, ran the hose inside the front pushrod tubes, and located the filter just behind my oil cooler and fastened in place with a zip tie. The "wetness" you see in that last pic is from my cam change a couple of days prior to this mod.
all said and done, $16 in parts and about 45 minutes of my time that will prolong the life of my motor.
I'm getting an additional 2 miles per gallon since I did mine. Every little bit helps. Just makes me feel better about what's going into the motor now. So nice to not have to worry about the bottom of the air filter having oil on it/in it as well.
Stock breather bolts are too short with AN BS. My plan is to remove bolts thats used with AN kit which exits internally via side hole to stock like straight through passage (but longer bolt) which will allow hose connections to T like all are doing. Will post up picks if works as planned or if no go
Just did my re route to a collector. Now my se stage 1 k & n sounds like a turbo when I'm cranking the gears. It's right up there with the rumble. Love those evos
04-23-2016 | 10:09 AM
