Who has installed Fuelmoto head pipe ?
#22
oops. I corrected the above (step 15).the snap rings being referred to are on your stock head pipe and are located behind the flanges that mount to the exhaust ports. Once you unbolt the (2) 1/2" nuts at each cylinder exhaust port the chrome flange will slide down the pipe along with the snap rings. Just grab a pair of pliers and work one end of the snap ring over the lip on the headpipe and work the ring off. Pay attention to the groove in the flange as the snap rings fits into it when putting things back together.
in the pic below, the flanges are at the top, the retaining rings are at the bottom
in the pic below, the flanges are at the top, the retaining rings are at the bottom
#24
#26
I don't think the info you have received could be any better. The actual headpipe install went without issue for me, but the fitment of the heat shields was a little tricky.
I couldn't get the shields to line up like factory. I found that the shields rotated or lifted when tightening up the clamps on them. Just "tack" them on lightly, so that they still have some movement left in them. I put all of of the shields on loosely and then held each one firmly in place while tightening the clamps, slightly adjusting each one as I went.
I think I started front to back and then had to re-adjust back to front. After a little patience, they look just like they did from the Motor Company!
I couldn't get the shields to line up like factory. I found that the shields rotated or lifted when tightening up the clamps on them. Just "tack" them on lightly, so that they still have some movement left in them. I put all of of the shields on loosely and then held each one firmly in place while tightening the clamps, slightly adjusting each one as I went.
I think I started front to back and then had to re-adjust back to front. After a little patience, they look just like they did from the Motor Company!
#27
To answer ur question, hundreds have installed their FM headers. Get a service manual, the correct tools, and follow some of the advice given.
While you wait for the pipe to deliver, do this:
-purchase new oem exhaust port gaskets. The shitty thin exhaust port collar on the oem pipe has formed your gasket to its dimentions. The fuel moto pipe has a much thicker, more robust collar than the oem pipe. Thats why you should pull the old gaskets and replace with new. Or you can gamble.
- purchase a new crossover gasket ( theres a better than 50% probability that u will screw the original one up). Have something ready, such as a pipe expander, to expand the mouth of the crossover pipe. This is easy to frig up if u are careless.
- purchase new exhaust collars and retainer clips. Why put worn rusty **** back on the bike with your new header? And buy some new exhaust port nuts also. Dont put rusty **** back on your ride. Thats just cheap *** if u ask me.
-spray ur exhaust studs with liquid wrench the day before you intend to remove the exhaust port bolts. If you skip this step and break off a stud, you just screwed the pooch my friend.
-use a quality torque wrench. Not some cheap *** $50 chinese made crap
-tighten exhaust nuts to spec. Ride a few hundred miles, then re-torque. They will need to be snuuged up back to specs, then should be good to go for the long haul.
- be paitient and take your damn time. Its a little tricky sometimes to get it all lined up and on both sets of port studs. Ensure new pipe does not touch frame anywhere! Especially in the area just before it turns to go underneath bike.
- check the tightness of the two lowermost bolts on transmission cover while you have the header off. Make sure they are tight.
While you wait for the pipe to deliver, do this:
-purchase new oem exhaust port gaskets. The shitty thin exhaust port collar on the oem pipe has formed your gasket to its dimentions. The fuel moto pipe has a much thicker, more robust collar than the oem pipe. Thats why you should pull the old gaskets and replace with new. Or you can gamble.
- purchase a new crossover gasket ( theres a better than 50% probability that u will screw the original one up). Have something ready, such as a pipe expander, to expand the mouth of the crossover pipe. This is easy to frig up if u are careless.
- purchase new exhaust collars and retainer clips. Why put worn rusty **** back on the bike with your new header? And buy some new exhaust port nuts also. Dont put rusty **** back on your ride. Thats just cheap *** if u ask me.
-spray ur exhaust studs with liquid wrench the day before you intend to remove the exhaust port bolts. If you skip this step and break off a stud, you just screwed the pooch my friend.
-use a quality torque wrench. Not some cheap *** $50 chinese made crap
-tighten exhaust nuts to spec. Ride a few hundred miles, then re-torque. They will need to be snuuged up back to specs, then should be good to go for the long haul.
- be paitient and take your damn time. Its a little tricky sometimes to get it all lined up and on both sets of port studs. Ensure new pipe does not touch frame anywhere! Especially in the area just before it turns to go underneath bike.
- check the tightness of the two lowermost bolts on transmission cover while you have the header off. Make sure they are tight.
#29
Its brain dead simple. Seriously. Don't pay them $100/hr to do this.
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