Converting a dual disc wheel to single disc...
#12
all depends if the two rotors are held on with through bolts or individual bolts on each side. It can be done either way.
in either case, you will have to cap off the brake line at the junction, or replace the brake line with a single run to the remaining caliper.
1) if individual bolts on each side, just remove the bolts to the rotor you want to remove. Go to your local mom and pop hardware store, and get some plastic plugs to stuff in the holes (or use shorter versions of the bolts that came out).
2) if through bolts, remove the bolt, and find some just a bit shorter (by the thickness of the now missing rotor carrier). Use a flat washer (not lock) under the nut of the bolt to prevent marring the wheel on the rotor carrier mating surface. You want this perfectly true in the future if you decide to put the rotor back on.
FWIW, you are not crazy, I have removed the 2nd rotor from a number of bikes I have owned. Not bikes as heavy as a Harley, but hell, Softails come with one rotor. You can upgrade the one remain side to get you to the point where you can lock up the front wheel. Does anyone need more? Advantages to going to one rotor, looks, and less unsprung weight. Forks will track bumps better...
Enjoy
in either case, you will have to cap off the brake line at the junction, or replace the brake line with a single run to the remaining caliper.
1) if individual bolts on each side, just remove the bolts to the rotor you want to remove. Go to your local mom and pop hardware store, and get some plastic plugs to stuff in the holes (or use shorter versions of the bolts that came out).
2) if through bolts, remove the bolt, and find some just a bit shorter (by the thickness of the now missing rotor carrier). Use a flat washer (not lock) under the nut of the bolt to prevent marring the wheel on the rotor carrier mating surface. You want this perfectly true in the future if you decide to put the rotor back on.
FWIW, you are not crazy, I have removed the 2nd rotor from a number of bikes I have owned. Not bikes as heavy as a Harley, but hell, Softails come with one rotor. You can upgrade the one remain side to get you to the point where you can lock up the front wheel. Does anyone need more? Advantages to going to one rotor, looks, and less unsprung weight. Forks will track bumps better...
Enjoy
#13
all depends if the two rotors are held on with through bolts or individual bolts on each side. It can be done either way.
in either case, you will have to cap off the brake line at the junction, or replace the brake line with a single run to the remaining caliper.
1) if individual bolts on each side, just remove the bolts to the rotor you want to remove. Go to your local mom and pop hardware store, and get some plastic plugs to stuff in the holes (or use shorter versions of the bolts that came out).
2) if through bolts, remove the bolt, and find some just a bit shorter (by the thickness of the now missing rotor carrier). Use a flat washer (not lock) under the nut of the bolt to prevent marring the wheel on the rotor carrier mating surface. You want this perfectly true in the future if you decide to put the rotor back on.
FWIW, you are not crazy, I have removed the 2nd rotor from a number of bikes I have owned. Not bikes as heavy as a Harley, but hell, Softails come with one rotor. You can upgrade the one remain side to get you to the point where you can lock up the front wheel. Does anyone need more? Advantages to going to one rotor, looks, and less unsprung weight. Forks will track bumps better...
Enjoy
in either case, you will have to cap off the brake line at the junction, or replace the brake line with a single run to the remaining caliper.
1) if individual bolts on each side, just remove the bolts to the rotor you want to remove. Go to your local mom and pop hardware store, and get some plastic plugs to stuff in the holes (or use shorter versions of the bolts that came out).
2) if through bolts, remove the bolt, and find some just a bit shorter (by the thickness of the now missing rotor carrier). Use a flat washer (not lock) under the nut of the bolt to prevent marring the wheel on the rotor carrier mating surface. You want this perfectly true in the future if you decide to put the rotor back on.
FWIW, you are not crazy, I have removed the 2nd rotor from a number of bikes I have owned. Not bikes as heavy as a Harley, but hell, Softails come with one rotor. You can upgrade the one remain side to get you to the point where you can lock up the front wheel. Does anyone need more? Advantages to going to one rotor, looks, and less unsprung weight. Forks will track bumps better...
Enjoy
#14
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Long Island, New York
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Most HD wheels are setup to accept 2 rotors, one on each side. If the bike is equipped with single disc, they just put a blank off plate on the other side. No change in spacing or anything else like that. Take a look at the cast wheels used on Sportsters and Dynas/FXR, some bikes had single disc and some had dual disc. Same wheel used for both bikes from the factory.
So assuming you figured out how to make the brakes and ABS work, I see no reason why a wheel setup for dual disc could not have a single installed. The wheel itself should perform the same and spacing should be the same.
As I type, for sure the spacing is not changed. The rotor is bolted to the wheel and the spacers go through the rotor, no contact. The rotor not being there has zero affect on spacing.
So assuming you figured out how to make the brakes and ABS work, I see no reason why a wheel setup for dual disc could not have a single installed. The wheel itself should perform the same and spacing should be the same.
As I type, for sure the spacing is not changed. The rotor is bolted to the wheel and the spacers go through the rotor, no contact. The rotor not being there has zero affect on spacing.
#15
Yes, sorry folks have a hard time seeing forest for the trees. You will get "it's your bike, do what want" until it gets personal, then they follow with "so long as you do the way I want". It's sad in some sense, but can be entertaining in another. Let's start another post on removing crash guards. Lol
#16
#17
What kind of wheel is it? After market? What brand? On a stock wheel all you do is take the rotor off but you are left with the holes for the rotor on the right hand side. With aftermarket wheels you can buy a single disc hub (depending on the brand of wheel and hub) that is designed for single disc.
In response the tire first comment in this thread, many people are more concerned with the looks of their bike than the stopping power. I personally prefer to be able to stop quicker than look good. Many people go to a 13" rotor with a 6 piston caliper when converting to single disc as this will provide more stopping power than the stock size rotor and stock caliper. There are quite a few ways to do this and if anyone has questions please call the shop.
In response the tire first comment in this thread, many people are more concerned with the looks of their bike than the stopping power. I personally prefer to be able to stop quicker than look good. Many people go to a 13" rotor with a 6 piston caliper when converting to single disc as this will provide more stopping power than the stock size rotor and stock caliper. There are quite a few ways to do this and if anyone has questions please call the shop.
#18
#19
I don't think that the rotor on either side is part of the wheel spacer . I think as long as you plug the hose to whatever side you want to remove you should be able to just remove the rotor and caliper and your done . As far as abs I don't know i
f it would work or not.
f it would work or not.
#20
This depends on the year of your bike. 2000-2007 needs a different master cylinder (9/16) but 2008 and newer work fine single disc with the stock bore master cylinder. 08 and newer bore is a metric more, not sure of the actual number.