Was some garage door discussion on the Poser's, thought I'd share what I put on there. I've learned some of my garage door experience the hard way... at least I had enough sense to let a younger guy with the right tools and experience do the springs. Watching them... no, I'll never try it, the possible outcomes are worse than the labor costs.
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I put these rollers on mine last May, mine were blue, not that color matters:
All these are 5 star rated in user reviews, all have the same bearings used in powertools, inline skates, and skate boards. I'd get the ones with front dust seals, the bearings are only metal shielded, not sealed. A nice thing about these, they never have to be lubricated, the bearings should outlast the other parts on most home doors.
Tip: that bottom roller shares the cable attach point on its bracket, scary to mess with when the cable is attached under spring tension. Way around it the garage door installers use is to just bend out a side of the door rail enough to pull the roller wheel out, have enough play there and you don't even have to loosen/remove the hinge the roller stem goes into (edit - the others, not the bottom bracket, don't loosen that!). Then with the new wheel in, just bend the rail back, it's soft metal and I couldn't even tell where the guy that showed me how had bent it. For the rest of them, I pulled the hinges off to remove the rollers, easy enough with a socket in the cordless drill, just to make sure I didn't get any bend kinks in the rail. Do the bottom one first, and if you think it was easy and worked ok, could do them all with the bend method, that's what the door guys do because it's faster. Probably a no brainer, but I'll mention it, only do ONE at a time.
If the door still sounds noisy, disconnect it from the drive and run it up and down by hand. Look at the roller stems and see if they all show about the same amount of stem sticking out past the hinge, if not the rails may not be straight and the door cocking or even rubbing as it moves. The rails can be adjusted if it's not off too bad. If the door rolls smoothly and quietly by hand, take the plastic cover off the motor and run it by power. A door guy told me those often vibrate so bad they drown out the other noises. Sure enough, that was what made most of the noise on mine, and I just left it off.
Rear fuel sender broken. Hopefully a new sender fixes the issue.
I learned the hard way not to replace in tank components with half price aftermarket. Month later, had to do it all over again, but next time not with the cheap part. Hope the one you're doing is easier to get to than it is on most cars and pickup trucks.
10-16-2019, 01:36 PM
