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TOAK, The Thread of All Knowledge Part X

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  #29071  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:42 PM
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An air chissel with the hammer bit should get it too.
 
  #29072  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
An air chissel with the hammer bit should get it too.
Got an air chisel , no hammer tip. Not much room to get at it either.
 
  #29073  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
They upgraded my shop heaters this summer. Some new fangled black 4" pipe that runs the length of the shop. Some radiant heat thing. Works well for those cold 50* nights in SLO. Waste of money imo.
Most of the shops I've worked in have those heaters, Lou. Not a big fan. The heat is too localized. They heat things instead of area.
 
  #29074  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:49 PM
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I can’t figure what was keeping the yoke from just spinning on the gearbox input shaft?
 
  #29075  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:50 PM
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Two thick pieces of steel plate behind the yoke and resting on the case then a pair of bug chisels and wedge the yoke. Once tension is achieved then heat the yoke. It should pop off. Old mad once told me heat and cool 3 times will break any bond.
 
  #29076  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadKing 2014
I can’t figure what was keeping the yoke from just spinning on the gearbox input shaft?
I was just thinking the same thing.....
 
  #29077  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadKing 2014
I can’t figure what was keeping the yoke from just spinning on the gearbox input shaft?

Broken key is wedged in the yoke. Might not be pretty when it comes apart. The key is softer than the shaft and yoke.
 
  #29078  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Broken key is wedged in the yoke. Might not be pretty when it comes apart. The key is softer than the shaft and yoke.
 
  #29079  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:56 PM
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If you can lock up the gear box you could put a bar through the u joint and bar it back to the original position. It should come off easier.
 
  #29080  
Old 12-31-2017, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Two thick pieces of steel plate behind the yoke and resting on the case then a pair of bug chisels and wedge the yoke. Once tension is achieved then heat the yoke. It should pop off. Old mad once told me heat and cool 3 times will break any bond.
The yoke moves on the shaft about an eight inch. So it’s not frozen. The key way in the yoke is directly under the set screw hole. You can see the key way in the shaft ?
 


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